Monday, April 30, 2012

[Weapons] ANFO


     ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution.  An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to
pick up water vapor from the air.  This results in the explosive failing to
detonate when such an attempt is made.  This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene.  The kerosene keeps
the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air.  An ANFO also
requires a large shockwave to set it off.

     About ANFO            (From Dean S.)

  Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures.  These are
mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil.  This forms a reasonably powerful
commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is
cheap.  Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is
dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound. To
keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk truck,
which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to most of
the world) and a tank of fuel oil.  It is strongly recommended that a dye of
some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier to
distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer.

   ANFO is not without its problems.  To begin with, it is not that sensitive
to detonation.  Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO.
Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes.  Common boosters
include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives,
dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive. The
need to use boosters raises the cost.  Secondly, ANFO is very water
susceptable.  It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and
becomes quite worthless real quick.  It must be protected from water with
borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick.  Third, ANFO has a low
density, somewhere around .85.  This means ANFO sacks float, which is no good,
and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low. Generally,
the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more effective.
ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it is places,
raising the density to about .9 or .92.  The delivery system adds to the cost,
and must be anti static in nature.  Aluminum is added to some commercial,
cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises power
considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive.

  Now than, for formulations.  An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of
ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel.  This mixture is
extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked.  Dupont recommends a
AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight.  Hardly any oil at all.  More oil
makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and excess
fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is oxygen
poor.  Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as the
porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with various
materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from being

   Another problem with ANFO:  for reliable detonation, it needs confinement,
either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge.  Thus, a
pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather
than explode when the booster is shot.  In boreholes, or reasonable strong
casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite
well.  So will big piles.  Thats how the explosive potential was discovered: a
small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship.  Over several hours the
cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass.  Real big bang.
A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel oil with
a wax fuel.  Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a cohesive
mixture, mold into shape.  The wax fuels, and retains the mixture. This is
what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge.  The military
literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it is important
to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more powerful than
commercial ones.  The military rightly insists on reliability, and thus a
strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial).  They also tend to
go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then hey, who

   Two manuals of interest:  Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual mainly
useful for rock and seismographic operations.  Atlas's "Powder Manual" or
"Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office).  This is a
$60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus
demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.

    Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the
manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture
and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to
manufacture.  Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store.  Those
who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us:  anyone, at least
in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no
criminal record.  Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need
a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities
of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion
to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old
folks homes, okay.

                              D. S.- Civil Engineer at large.

                            Brought to you in the CookBook IV..

                                        -= Exodus =-

[Weapons] Anarchists Guide to Compound Explosives

                         + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
                 + + + + + R   A   I   D    PyroTechnics + + + + +
                         + + + + +   Presents  + + + + + +
                                  + + + + + + +

                         The Anarchists Guide To Compound
                              +E X P L O S I V E S+

                __    ____    ____     __    __    ______       ___
               I  I  I  __I  I  __I   I  I  I  I  I   ___I     /_  I
               I  I  I I__   I I__    I  I  I  I  I  I___   O    I I
               I  I   \__ I   \__ I   I  I  I  I  I   ___I       I I
               I  I   __/  I  __/  I  I  I__I  I  I  I___   O   _I I_
               I__I  I____I  I____I    \______/   I______I     I_____I

                              [\Fuse Construction/]

                         -[ By  ..> The  Darkmage <.. ]-

RAID is a rebel anarchists group that learns and then educates others in
the knowledge of the manufacturing of explosive devices and materials.
RAID stands for :

                               R     A     I     D
                               e     n     n     e
                               b     a     c     s
                               e     r     u     t
                               l     c     r     r
                                     h           u
                                     i           c
                                     s           t
                                     t           i
                                     s           o

NOTE : These procedures may cause injuries or death to a person that
performs them.  Neither RAID nor I are responsible for any injuries or
death resulting from the execution of these procedures, which happen to be
illegal.  This is for informational purposes only.
    The reason I am writing this issue on fuses is because all the files
I've read the explain anything at all about fuses was so fucked up it
was even hard for me to follow ... and because a lot of times the writer
will just say 'insert a fuse' or 'trigger by a shockwave'.. etc. which
makes it extreamly hard for a beginning anarchist to figure it out.. and
for you experienced guyz, maybe this phile will give you some new idea's..
First, it is important.. if you dony already know.. to understand the
different types of explosives.  There are 2 major types, where different
fuses/detonaters apply.

: High - Order Explosives :

     A high order explosive has an intense explosion, and generates huge
ammounts of heat.. basically they fuck things up pretty good.  Most high
order explosives are hella sensitive.. someone belching in the next
county could generate a shockwave big enuf to set it off.  There are some
high order's that arent as sensitive to shock waves and heat.. like
plastique.  The millitary uses a squib to set off this type of high order
explosive.  Basically a squib is a detonater.  See 'Squibs' later in this
phile. When the squib is detonated, usually by an electronic detonater,
the small explosion sends a shockwave through the high order, causing it
to explode.  Most of the time, a fuse will not do shit to a high order
explosive, unless it is very sensitive, or has a reactive quality for
flame or heat.

: Low - Order Explosives :

     A low order explosive is basically a flammable substance like gun
powder.  This is the most likely type of explosive that will use a fuse.
A low order explosive can also act as a detonater for a high order
explosive, by confining the flash  i.e.  putting a SHIT LOAD of gun powder
into a pipe, and running a fuse through a small hole in the top.  This
will blow the fuck out of most anything... except a building or some
other stupid shit like that... but it is too big to act as a detonater.
To set off a low order explosive, a fuse is used.  A fuse is just a guide
for a flame to come into contact with an explosive substance.  See 'Fuses'
later in this phile.  When lit, the flame will burn down the fuse until
it comes into contact with the material.. ignites it.. and startes the
reaction, until the whole substance is consumed in flame.  Different
fuses have different burn rates, as does gun powder according to its
          F .. Course powder, burns the slowest  > .50 cal
         FF .. Semi fine powder, burns quite fast> .50 - .38 cal
        FFF .. Fine powder, the fastest          > .38 cal

******************************** Squibs *********************************

This peticular squib's effectiveness will depend on the quality of how
It was made (which is illegal). This is how someone would go about making

            Materials Needed                    Where To Find These
            ................                    ...................

      .22 shell                                       Sporting Goods store
solar ignighter                                 Hobby Shop (Model Rockets)
Gun Powder                                      Sporting Goods Store
Epoxy                                           Radio Shack / Orchard Sup.
2 wires (50+ feet long)                         Radio Shack
4 AA battery pack/Rocket Launcher               Hobby Shop (Model Rockets)
soldering iron                                  Dear 'ol dad (Rad Shack)


1).  Carefully cut the bullet off of the shell with a pair of pliers, but
make sure not to crimp the shell.  Once the bullet is off, pour the
powder into a motar and pestle, or some dish, and grind it up so that it
is a fine powder.  Add some from another bullet, or from a package of
black powder for those black powder guns.  Once the powder is finely
ground, carefully fill the shell about 1/2 way up.  Take a pencil, and
with the eraser, pack the powder into the shell, so that it is 1/2 its
origional size.. or as close as possible.  Add some more, and pack it
down, until the shell is 3/4 filled with densly packed powder.

2).  Take the solar ignighter, and a small knife.  Loosen only a small
amount of the top layer of the powder with the knife.  Bury the head of
the ignighter in the loosened powder, and crimp the very top of the shell
making sure not to dammage the head, but enuf to pack the thing tight.

3).  Solder 2 wires to the 2 wires comming from the ignighter.  Then
CAREFULLY epoxy the crimped .22 shell shut.  If you fuck up the soldering
the thing might go off in youre face... make DAMN sure that the two wires
are not touching, or are not connected by solder.. be CAREFULL!!!

4).  Stick the squib in the High order explosive that you want to detonate
without disturbing the material.  Run the two wirez WAY the hell back
under some cover so that you dont catch some shrapnel in you're face.
Once there, if you have the model rocket launcher, connect the micro clips
(alligatior clips) to the 2 wirez, and press the button.. BOOOOM.  If you
have the improvised battery pack, connect one wire to the (+) terminal,
and one to the (-) terminal... when both are touching they're respective
terminals, BOOOOM !!!!

      You're squib should look like this:
...................................    _____ Positive Wire___*______ To +
                                [     [
                              **[***  [_____ Negative Wire___*______ To -

Key :
I   .....  .22 shell casing
%   .....  Packed gun powder
&   .....  Layer of loosened powder
0   .....  Solar ignighter head
#   .....  Crimped area
*   .....  Epoxied end
[   .....  Solar ignighter leeds

(You can figure the rest out, if it isnt in the key.)

******************************** Fuses **********************************

This is where creativity comes into play.  There are many ways to make a
fuse.  One of the crudest ways is to make a trail of gasoline, or other
flammable liquid, and light one end.  Here are just a few wayz to make

: Cigarettes :

      This is probably the most ingenious way to make a fuse... it works VERY
well, and it can be up to 10-15 minutes delay time.  All that is needed is
a cigarette, and a firecracker fuse.. or similar powder strewn fuse.  See
'Powder Fuses' later in this phile.


1). Very simple.  Just take a large needle, and make a hole somewhere in
the cigarette, but not in the filter... make sure it is in the tobacco.

2). Just insert the fuse through the hole, and light the cigarette.
The fuse, OBVIOUSLY, is connected to the low order explosive.  When the
cigarette burns down to the hole with the fuse, it lights it, and BOOM.

It should look like this:
.........................         ****   <---Lit end
                                  I  I
                                  I  I
                                  I  I
                                  I  I
                                  I  I
                                  I oI   <---Hole
                                  I  I
                                  I&&I   <---Filter

Understand?  Good.

: Powder Fuses :

Powder fuses is a string or a long piece of paper that has been made with
gun powder.  It's the grey string that a firecracker uses.  To make one of
these, you MUST use a 100% all coton shoelace or string.

100% coton shoelace or string
Fine grade gun powder
Shallow pan or dish
Hot Water


1).  Pour powder into pan.  Add small ammounts of the hot water to make a
     Paste.  Smooth the paste.

2).  Spread the paste over the shoelaces.  The paste should be slightly
     runny, but not like water (use you're judgement).

3).  Allow the fuse to dry.

This fuse will have a fast burn rate... to time the fuse, cut a one inch
piece off, and time how long it takes to burn.  Then decide how long of
a fuse will be needed for you're purposes.

: Solar Ignighters :

The easist way to detonate a low order explosive is with a Solor
ignighter.  Simply bury the solor ignighter in the explosive and connect
a model rocket launcher to the two leads comming from the ignighter.
If you dont have a model rocket launcher, simply solder 4 AA batteries
together with wires or brass contacts.  Solder 2 wires to the two leads
from the ignighter, and connect these to the + and - terminals of the
battery pack.  !IMPORTANT!  Only connect the two wires to the terminal
you are ready to detonate the explosive... because as soon as the wires
touch the terminals, the circut will be complete.  To insure detonation,
keep the wires on the terminals for quite a while (at least 30 secs.)
because the ignighter burns for 5 seconds after the circut is complete,
and the detonation may not have been successful in the first 4 seconds of

: 12 Hour Delay/Detonater :

This can be used for either a Low order or a high order explosive.  This
detonater can be set from 1 hour to 12 hours, by using a 2 handed clock.


2 Handed 12 hour clock
2 wires
2 contacts
Solar Ignighter / Squib


1).  Remove the minute hand from the clock.  If the hour hand can conduct
electricity, solder a wire to this hand.  If the hour hand CANNOT conduct
electricity, solder a wire to one of the contacts, and mount it on the
hand, so that the contact is on the counter clock wise side of the hand.
      In other words, glue the contact to the right side of the hand if it was
6 o'clock.  Now mount the second contact that goes to the power source
on the face of the clock in such a way, that when the hand reaches 6
o'clock, both contacts will touch.  If the hand DOES conduct electricity,
you must make this second contact touch the hand when it reachs 6 o'clock.
Solder a wire to the second contact.  This wire should lead to one
terminal of the power source.

2).  Now Connect the first wire to one lead of the solar ignighter, and
the second lead should be connected to one terminal of the power source.
(I know this sounds confusing, but take a look at my diagram while you
read it two or three times over... you should understand it by then, and
if you dont, re read it until you do.)

3).  Now set the clock's hand to how many hours you want it to delay
detonation from 6 o'clock.  Example, if you want it to wait 4 hours, set
the hand at 2 o'clock.  Once that is done the countdown starts.

4).  Bury the head of the solar ignighter in the low order explosive, or
if this procedure is done with a squib, insert the squib in the high order
explosive.  (**NOTE** : To use a squib, substitute the two leads of the
solar ignighter with the 2 leads of the squib.)

5).  Connect the second lead from the solar ignighter/squib to the
power supply (which should always be a 4 AA battery pack when using solar
ignighters or squibs).  Once the battery is connected, the bomb is armed.
CAREFULLY, place the bomb next to whatever you want to blow up, and RUN
LIKE HELL...  you dont want to be there if something goes wrong.  When
the hand reachs 6 o'clock, the contacts will touch, completing the circut,
detonating the explosive.  This is what a pro terrorist would use.

What it will look like:
                  [                                  ]     _______________
   _______________[_______                           ]    I               I
  I               [       I                          ]    I               I
  I          12   [       I                          ]____I____           I
  I      11      1[       I                           _________\0 <----\  I
  I   10          [  2    I                          [    I            |  I
  I               [       I                          [    I Squib or solarI
  I  9        O---*-> 3   I                          [    I      IgnighterI
  I                       I                          [    I               I
  I   8       *      4    I                          [    I_______________I
  I       7    \   5      I                          [       (Explosive)
  I           6 ]         I                          [
  I_____________]_________I                          [
                ]                                    [
                 ----------------------   ------------
                                      ]   [
                                      ]   [
                                      +   -
                                     ### ###
                                     #A# #A#    B
                                     #A# #A#    a P
                                     ### ###    t a
                                      -   +  <--t c
                                      +   -     e k
                                     ### ###    r
                                     #A# #A#    y
                                     #A# #A#
                                     ### ###
                                      -   +
                                      [   ] <--- wire that connects
                                      [   ]      + and - terminals

Key :

#  ...  The batteries
+  ...  Positive Terminal
-  ...  Negative Terminal
*  ...  Contacts on clock
0  ...  Head of ignighter in Squib or by itself

The rest is pretty much self explanitory.. the ],[,- signs are all wires
connecting up the circut.


Welp, this is the end of Issue : 1 of The Rebel Anarchists Guide to
Compound Explosives.  Watch for Issue : 2 Comming soon to a BBS near you.
This is an official RAID [PyroTechnics] Production.  RAID has the sole
publication rights of this article.


: Final Notes :

     This article should provide you with enuf information about fuses
     so that you can apply it to other files.  If you enjoyed this
     issue and would like to get them as soon as they are written by
     RAID, or would like to be a member of RAID, please call one of our
     Nodes, and leave mail to the sysop about getting in touch with a
     member of RAID.

                                Node List
    Home Base     :  Name    : The Stoney BBS
                     Number  : (408)927-9418
                     Sysop   : Jojo Bags
                     Bauds   : 12oo/24oo
                     PCPable : CASJO

    Node # 1      :  Name    : The Outer Limits BBS
                     Number  : (408)433-5514
                     Sysop   : The Programmer
                     Bauds   : 12oo/24oo
                     PCPable : CASJO

    Node # 2      :  Name    : Dragon's Heaven
                     Number  : (408)Pri-Vate
                     Sysop   : Master Ryu
                     Bauds   : 12oo/24oo
                     PCPable : CASJO

Or, you can call my BBS directly, and get a much quicker responce, and all
the latest files first....

     Supply House :  Name    : The Darkmoor Hold BBS
                     Number  : (408)248-0745
                     Sysop   : The Darkmage
                     Bauds   : 12oo/24oo
                     PCPable : CASJO


                                                       The Darkmage
                                                  [ RAID ] [PyroTechnics]



[Weapons] Anarchist Home Compainion


     The Anarchist's Home Companion.
     Table Of Contents:
   I    An Introduction to the Anarchial Arts. Pg.  3
   II   The Tools of the Arts................. Pg.  4
   III  Mild Anarchism........................ Pg.  5
   IV   Anarchy for Amusement................. Pg.  6
   V    Anarchy for Profit.................... Pg.  8
   VI   Havoc and Hell........................ Pg. 10
   VII  The Black Arts........................ Pg. 12 
   VIII Theft:................................ Pg. 13
   A          Single Party Theft.............. Pg. 14
   B          Multiple-Party Theft............ Pg. 15 
   C          Other Forms of Theft............ Pg. 16
   IX   Destruction:.......................... Pg. 19
   A          Home Made Weapons............... Pg. 21
   B          Interesting Ideas............... Pg. 22
   C          The Fun Part.................... Pg. 23
   X    Deception............................. Pg. 24
   XI   Sub-Forms............................. Pg. 25
   XII  Weapons and Explosives:............... Pg. 26
   A          Home-Made Explosives............ Pg. 27
   B          Chemical Explosives............. Pg. 39
   XIII General Anarchy....................... Pg. 41
   XIV  More Easy Gadgets..................... Pg. 43
   XV   Complex Explosives:................... Pg. 50
   A          Common "Weak" Explosives........ Pg. 51
   B          Thermite Reactions.............. Pg. 53
   C          Nitrogen-Containing High Exp.... Pg. 54
   D          Other Stuff..................... Pg. 56
   XVI  Stars, Flares, and Color Mixtures..... Pg. 57
   XVII The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics......... Pg. 64
    Note Sheets........................... Pg. 70


   Chapter One: An Introduction to the Anarchial Arts

   First off, I guess I must allot for those of you who don't know what I mean 
when I say Anarchy. (ALWAYS capitalize that word...don't forget!)  Well, maybe 
I should start off with a definition..        

   Anarchy: <`an-ahr-kee>...noun.  1. A social structure without law
   and order, government, or authority.  2. Utter  confusion.
   3. A rebellion against what's accepted as right or correct.

    Ya...right  outta  Webster's own, there.  Well, I HOPE that you  got  some 
idea  as   to what I'm talking about from that.  If not,  toss  this 
isn't  for you.  Done?  Okay.  Now that only the REAL people of the world  are 
here,  we  may commence the study of the perfection of this art,  and  examine 
some  of  the  newer developments and state-of-the-art  achievements  in  this 
religious pastime. 

    Chapter Two: The Tools of the Arts

 Explosives - A personal favorite. As everybody knows, there are many, 
   many, files floating  'round  out  there on this  topic.
   I  have  seen  docs and  plans for  everything from  the 
   front  axle  car  bomb to the  exploding  ball-point pen. 
   So, you should have no trouble with this section...

 Flammables - Gasoline, hairspray, ANYTHING that burns enthusiastically
   classifies.  However,  with the availability of gasoline,
   and the relative inexpensivity, (now .68/gal!), this most
   often becomes the  chosen  fluid.  Attain  some, and I'll
   tell you what to do with it later...

   Projectiles - Yes,  even the  most basic of prehistoric weaponry can be
   the Anarchist's  best friend.  Everything  from rocks  to
   eggs to your little brother classifies, anything that can 
   be  used  to  damage  or  destroy  when thrown will do...
   however,  due  to   the  relative   inexpensiveness   and
   availability of rocks leads to their wide usage...

   Instability - C'mon, let's not be silly.  Every Anarchist is so BECAUSE
   of an  inherent  mental imbalance.  A true Anarchist is a
   psychopathic Anarchist.  This REALLY  comes in handy when
   preparing for a "run", for to an Anarchist, quite simply,
   the  mad,  the  impossible,  isn't.  This   is  sometimes
   referred to by Anarchists as "guts" or "balls"...

    Transportation - (Preferably  motorized... be real).  Or, in many cases, a
   flock  of such.  A mandatory requirement for a successful
   authoritative  attack,  for  true  Anarchists  don't  get
   caught at the scene...

    Chapter Three: Mild Anarchism

 As  much as people would like to deny it, prank calls, yes,  prank  calls 
are a  form  of what could be known as "pre-Anarchy". It can even be found  in
The  Specter's infamous satire of the loser, "Anarchy for the  PreAdolescent",
under  "Major   Devilment  for the American Youngster."  Face  it,   EVERYBODY
as  made prank  calls once in a while for entertainment, and we still do, yet  
now   it's  more  for  profit  than for amusement.   Even   the   universally-
despised   jokes,  phrases,  and clauses told to preteens  by  their  visiting 
grandparents  such  as, "Excuse  me,  but is your refrigerator running?"  and, 
"Is  there a John  in  the house?"  are heard from time to time spewing  forth 
from the mouths of  giggling infants into the phone receiver into your hateful 
ear.   It's unavoidable.   Yet they do successfully annoy you,  therefore,  in 
essence,  completing SOME form  of mild  anarchy.   Face  it, like it or  not, 
these little jerks  are  the  future freaks and Anarchists of America...

    More  inventive  forms  of  this  nature  include  ringing  doorbells  and
running, putting  a  modem on auto-redial at an enemy's home, letting air  out
of  your neighbor's  tires,  and selling fake raffle tickets...(100%  profit!)

    Yet,  we must move on...

    Chapter Four: Anarchy for Amusement

 Yes,   Anarchy   CAN  be an entertainment outlet  for  a  slow   Saturday
night!  Just  get  a couple friends together, grab some brew, and  you're  off
to  wreak unholy havoc upon society!  But what to do first?  Hmm, you  consult
your   ever-  ready   "Anarchist's  Handbook,"  and  espy  the  chapter,  "Fun
Through  Blatant  Destruction  of Property!"  Aha.  That's the one,  but  how? 

 A. Spray Paint - Fun  stuff!  Sure,  why  not, for no reason at all, just
    go  out  and  paint  "@#$% You!"  all over everything in
    sight, or  maybe the infamous Anarchy sign, an encircled
    "A" everywhere?  Why not,  YOU  won't  have  to clean up
    that mess?  Hey!   Why  not paint "Can't Drive 55" signs
    all up and  down  Interstate  75  like  on Sammy Hagar's
    album?  A  warning, though.  Park OFF of the InterState,
    like  in a parking lot on a nearby road.  That way, when
    the pigs  see you, you've got plenty of time to scramble
    to the car and get away.  Also, paint can be "picked up"
    quite easily  from any drug store or hardware store, or,
    if you're not "into shoplifting," it's relatively cheap.
    A movie's  about $4.50, a can of paint's $1.75 or so, I
    don't know, haven't BOUGHT any in quite some time..  But
    in any  case,  it's cheap entertainment.  Not even a new
    flick  can  get  your  heart racing like a cop chase can.

 B. Destruction - Where are those bricks I threw back here?!?  Hmm,  maybe
    one or two would look good in Ms. Johnson's living room?
    Sure, the colors match beautifully!  But, aw shucks, the
    door's shut.  No need to bother the sweet old bitch,  we
    will just have to put them there ourselves...but how?  A
    window -- perfect.  Just toss 'em in  there!   I'm  sure
    she'd like to thank you for your good  day, but the Good
    Book says that we shouldn't do  something for the thanks
    that we receive, but  just  out  of  the goodness of our,  get  out  of  there before she sees you and
    tries to thank you personally it's the "good thing".

 C. An Invasion - (of privacy, that is!)  Blackmail material, possibly?  I
    wonder...   Grab  your  ever-handy beige boxes!  A swift
    kick to the bottom of the  phone  box should cause it to
    open freely.  Alligator  clips,  do  your stuff.. But if
    you'd  prefer  continual  results, simply  plant a "bug"
    in their house when you're there, like under the kitchen
    table, and,  can't  forget,  under  the bed... There are
    literally  hundreds  of plans circulating for the quick-
    'n-easy construction and usage of this homemade hardware
    also, don't  gripe  if you can't find any, 'cause if you
    can't, then you just haven't been looking!

     Chapter Five: Anarchy for Profit

 Financial   gain  is the goal, social disruption is the route.   No,  I'm
not  talking  about  becoming a "hit-man" for the mob or anything, just   some
clean  fun,   and a little profit on the side.  Sure, you could use  step  "C"
above  for blackmail  and information hostage purposes, but let's be a  little
inventive, that's been being done for YEARS.. 

 No,  you  can't  say  that  making  people  pay  "protection  money"   is
inventive.  G'zus,  it's on the "A-Team" every week,  for  chrissakes!   Let's 
think..  Watch  we make  money  by calling with MCI, Metro, and  Sprint,  but, 
that's   not   outright collection  of  payment,  that's...well,  that's  more 
like   SAVING   money,   like  clipping  coupons  in  the  newspaper,  if  you  get what you want  for  a lower price than usual.  We need  money, 
and we need it NOW!  Maybe if  you're.. "into"  this could 
possibly  CREATE   an  imaginary  employee at  some  company deep  within  the 
bowels  of  the  conglomerate  computer?   Maybe send   his   paychecks  to  a 
mysterious  P.O.  Box?  Sure, why the hell  not?   Hey, this  P.O.  Box  stuff 
sounds good.  I wonder...

 Visa...MasterCard...American       Express...Diner's        Club...K-Mart
Credit Cards! Sure, goods on credit!  It's the AMERICAN way, after all,  isn't 
it?   Why  not  do some late-night trashing?  G''ll have to  miss  David
Letterman!?!  Just   go   up  to the video  store,  (Highland's  the  easiest: 
they've   a  "no-questions-asked" return policy), and "buy" a VCR.  (I'm  sure 
you can get ahold of your mummy's credit card for an hour or so to do a little 
shopping..).   Next  stop, Radio Shack.  Waltz inside like  you're  some  rich 
preppie/yuppie  with   all the  money  in the world, and he won't  notice  the 
holes  in   your  faded  jeans, he'll  think that  they're  "in."   Sunglasses 
always work best, for some  reason, rich  people tend to wear 'em a lot.  (Why 
not  slip  a pack of ten'a dem  cheap-ass  Tandy  disks into  your  jacket  as 
long's  you're  there?    Don't  worry...alltheir   "security   systems"   are
Tandy-Made, so  they  always  work  like  crap anyhow..) Yes, sir, I'd like to 
buy  THAT  model.   Yes, that's right, the  TX156-34YI38Ejr.   Yes,   I  think 
that'll  be  all.   Here's my card.   I'll  sign...okie.   Thank   YOU,   sir. 
(After all, you need some toons  for  tonight's  trashing..) Now, return  your 
mummy's  card,  and,  as soon'z it's dark, we're off! (But  don't   forget  to 
return the box and the VCR after tonight, you can buy them  on somebody else's 
card tomorrow!  Or else mommie'll get mad...)

    Try to locate an "everything store," like K-Mart or Major's.  These places 
are   the most open, the most disorganized.  9 times out of 10 there will   be
a  couple large trash bins behind the store.  Whatever they try to  tell  you,
they  most   often will NOT lock these, because that's the job  of  the  stock
boy,   and  he's   most  often more concerned with Jenny,  the  salesclerk  in
Electronics  to bother once he's off work.  Most of their stock boys are about
16 or 17, so  as long  as  they're NORMAL teen-agers, they'll do as little  as 
possible   to  keep from being fired.  Why lock the bins, sir, who would  want 
to  go  in THERE?!?   I  would..   EVERYTHING they have goes  in  there.   The 
salesclerks  are SUPPOSED  to rip the carbons in half, but we know  how  often 
they  REALLY do that.  Even  when they  do, it's no problem getting the  name, 
number,  and  anything else  you  may need for card identification  off  of  a 
ripped carbon, they usually stick to each other  anyhow..  Get one kid to keep 
watch, and everybody else go  fishing  for  access  codes, 
(good luck at K-Mart!),  telephone  numbers, credit check phone numbers,  but, 
most of all, look for card carbons! These will provide  you  with a  limitless 
source  of  TV-Ad goodies and  mail-order  stuff.. This   search  should  take 
anywhere  from :30 min to all night, depending  on  cop  surveillance.    Fill
suitcases  and  travel  bags  with  anything  that  looks important,  you  can 
sort  it all out at home.. (This is one good thing about  K-Mart,  there's  no 
produce rotting food to sift through..)

 Got it all?  Now, just flip on a local station, or MTV, or whatever,  and,
before you can say "I Love Ma Bell," you'll run across 9 or 10 million ads  for
stuff  like "Ronco 'In the Shell' Egg Scramblers" and "ACME Nosehair  Clippers"
and  the like..write down the phone number for the company that makes  whatever
product  you could want, and give them your name, (off of the  card,  stupid!),
and  your card number..and presto!  In 4 to 6 weeks, you've got your own  brand
new  set of Ronco Party of charge.  (YOU try to say "I  Love
Ma Bell"...*I* can't!)  Another good idea is to cruse over to the 7-11 and,once
you've  gotten  your  Slurpee, buy a lot of mail-order  magazines,  (ie.  Ninja
Magazines,  etc.)   They've got a lot of card order forms and  phone  numbers..
But,  don't  forget!  NEVER SEND THE GOODS TO YOUR HOME!   That's  the  PERFECT
loser  thing to do.. Always find a "drop point," like a vacant house  which  is
for sale, or a P.O. Box.  You cannot be traced back through either method...
Have fun...

     Chapter Six: Havoc and Hell

 Just   what   you've been waiting for, I knew it.  Well,  there  are   SO
many  different forms of Anarchial aggression that it would be  impossible  to 
even TRY to list them all.  New and inventive methods of destruction are being
conjured up  every day, so I'll just try to give a brief overview.  First off, 
I'd  like to state that you don't HAVE to be a stoner or a headbanger to be an 
Anarchist, you don't even have to drink alcohol.  You can be perfectly  NORMAL
and...well, I  guess  if  you  didn't do any of that you wouldn't  be  normal,
would   you?  Anyhow,  you can be perfectly  still  be  an 
Anarchist at heart you  don't  have to be into blatant destruction, you  don't 
even  have  to  like  heavy  metal music...but it helps.  Who knows, maybe you 
just  like  to  replace normal light bulbs with gasoline-filled  ones?   Maybe 
you just, for some reason, enjoy  running down little kiddies.. YOU can't help 
it.   So,  if  you can't  help it,  pursue it.  Become  the  best  hit-and-run 
artist  on  your  block!  Maybe  even in  the  whole   county!    Modify  your 
vehicle  to your  interests  and  mount  a kangaroo  bar on the front of  your 
Ford  Bronco  or S-15, so that the people  you run  over   slide  more  easily 
under  your car...maybe even put a  window  in  the floor  so  you   can   see 
who you just helplessly  maimed?   Ms.  Johnson?   Oh- hello...did  you  enjoy 
the bricks?  You did?  That's good.  If  they  convulse, you did it right.

 A  good way to make a great start on a successful career as  another  one
of  "those  'Anarchial  @#$holes'" is to try drowning the neighbor's  cat   in
their pool.   Hmm, knowing how much cats hate water, we'll have to try to find
a   way  around  their fears...see how thoughtful Anarchists have  to  be?   I
think  that it's a very good training for future life myself.. Hmm,  howzabout 
the   infamous TV favorite, "cement shoes?" Perfect.  But how to get  the  cat 
into  cement?  Ah- replace  the kitty litter with cement and spike  the  cat's 
water  with  something like the cyanide found in many medicines.  It's  barely 
perceptible,  so  the  catill  get blitzed off of its ass and then go  to  the 
kitty  litter,  and get  stuck inside..  Cats make a LOT of  noise  when  they 
realize  that they've been trapped, so act quickly before  suspicions  arise.. 
Slip  the  cement  out  of the bin, (don't  forget   to   use  "no-stick"  PAM 
before!), with the cat stuck by  all  four  legs inside,  and  have  a  friend 
wash out the bin  should  be  somewhat clean,  so then re-fill  it 
with kitty litter before you are noticed. Hurry  up, or  you'll  miss all  the 
fun.  Drop the kitty into the pool.  If you  used  the right  cement, then you 
won't have to worry about it sinking.. It  is  actually quite interesting  the 
way that all the cat's fur floats in the water with every current!  Wild.. 

 Next   target...the  dog!   Make  your own lynch plan  for  the  dog,   I
haven't perfected  one  as  of  yet, they are too big and  noisy..  (I   don't
consider  chihuahuas and the like to be dogs..they are just sub-dogs) You  can 
treat   sub-dogs as cats, though, if you want the cat to have some  company... 
Hey,  why  not try  the  bird?  Easily captured, easily cemented!   It  really
is  quite  funny watching  a bird try and fly with it's feet cemented..  don't 
worry,   they  sink just as well as anything... Most of all, though, have  fun 
at it..experiment!

    Chapter Seven: The Black arts

    Well  here it is, the path to true Anarchy... Are you worthy of the  title 
of  a   true   Anarchist?   We will soon see. The  Black   arts   are   Theft,
Deception,  Destruction   and   all  sub-forms  of  Anarchy.  To  master   the
techniques  involved takes  time and patience but most of all, it has to be in 
your blood!  You  can always  tell the difference between a True Anarchist and 
a   dabbler...   Pulling the  fire  alarm at school doesn't cut  it  (Although 
that can be  fun  during  a slow  day)...  Anyone can do that, BUT, can you do 
it  without  getting  caught? Well,that  is  the tough part. Even at an  early 
age  one  can see  the  signs  of Anarchy  emerge... if a kid  watches  Mister 
Rogers all day, forget it but if  he builds  crude  weapons  out of  household 
items  and delights  in  torturing  the family pet, his sister etc..  then  he 
has potential. 

    Anarchy  usually starts off small and grows over a long period of  time... 
at first,  primitive  forms of Anarchy such as crank calls, nicky nine   doors
and  petty   theft   will   begin  the process.  At   this   point,   frequent
failure   or  getting   caught  may  put a  stop  to  the  increasing  chaotic 
tendencies  within   the  person   in  question.  If  the  little  bastard  is 
successful  in  his  endeavors, however, he will move on to bigger and  better 
things.  The  real  fun  stuff starts  in  high-school...  there  are  endless 
possibilities  for  amusement  at the  expense of   others...  these  will  be 
documented  later.  One thing to remember however  is that   there   are  many 
obstacles  which  stand  in your path such as  COPS,   locks,  alarms  and  of 
course,  the  most important thing to watch out for is  carelessness  on  your 
part. It is because of carelessness that many good hellraisers have met  their 
fate. Well, enough bull@#$%, let's get started!

    Chapter Eight: Theft

    Theft   is one of the most common forms of Anarchy, almost  everyone  does
it  at  one point in their lives... Even the Pope  probably  stole  dime-store
candies  when   he  was  a kid... Not everyone, however,  will  perform   this
maneuver   to  the   same  extent  or  with the same  rate  of  success.   The
CARELESS   ones   get  eliminated  by the forces of good.  Regardless  of  the 
motive, the  objective  is always  the same... To acquire at no cost and  with 
minimal effort, items  which are  not originally or rightfully yours...  There 
are  two sub-classes of  theft. These  are  single  party theft  and  multiple
party   theft  (with  accomplice). Regardless  of  the  type  of theft,  there
are   three   important   elements  to  consider:   Planning,  Execution,  and 
ESCAPE.  The  latter  is  probably  the  hardest  part  and  must  be  planned 
carefully.  A  plan is always required for a  successful  theft   and   should 
offer a high probability of success with as little risk as possible.

     Part A: Single party theft

    It   is   a  good  idea  to make a surveillance  sweep   of   the   target
area beforehand in order to decide on the best route to the desired item and a 
quick  escape  route.  Always have at least one alternative escape  route   in
case   of unexpected  intervention  by  cops or onlookers which  render   your
first  one impassable.  Once  you  have entered the target area, time  is   of
the   utmost  importance...   Get  in and out as  quickly  as  possible...  Be 
discrete and do  not attract  attention.  Always make a quick scan for mirrors 
or  cameras,  try  to stay  out of direct sight of others. 

    Sometimes,  the easiest things to take are items which are kept  right  in 
front  of  the  cashier... all it takes is for him to turn his  back  for  one 
second and  before you know it... FREE JUNK FOOD! Be alert, if there are other
people  present, do not go directly to the desired item. Browse a little,  but 
take   the  first  reasonably safe opportunity to make your way  over  to  it. 
Pocket  the   item quickly without looking at it or fumbling with it.  DO  NOT 
rush  out of the  area immediately if you don't have to, be casual  and  maybe 
even make a purchase.  If you  are  confronted however, GET THE $#@! OUT  Take 
the  quickest   one  of  your escape routes that you can, if you  are  perused 
then  you  must  leave  a  difficult trail  to follow. Dodge  on  and  out  of 
buildings  or cars, backtrack, hop  fences or  do what ever you have to do  to 
lose  them. If possible, motorized  transport is  a  good idea...  (cover  the 
license plate) If not, then work with  what  you have, create obstacles as you 
go, such as throwing objects at your pursuers  or knocking things down in your 

    Sometimes, a good cop chase can really give you a good feeling... It  sure 
satisfies   the Rambo in me! If you are forced to deviate from your  plan  due
to  unexpected  interference,  follow your instincts... but remember  that   a
true  Anarchist doesn't get caught at the scene! If it seems  inevitable  that
you will be  caught, stash the goods somewhere safe until you can collect  it.
After   you  have  bin  caught  then it's all over...unless, you  lie  like  a
bitch   or   your  captor  turns  out to be a friend of  the  family.  If  you 
escape,  then   you  have successfully completed your mission.  Hopefully  you 
will  have the foresight  not to hit a store in your neighborhood or one  that 
you  go  to  regularly. Try not to hit the same  place  every  time...  that's 

 For   an  added  challenge, you may want to try  to  swipe  items  stored
behind  the cashier's counter. There are ways to do this such as  the  classic 
"Can  I use your phone? I'm stranded and need to call home" Heh, if  they  let 
you  then   your only  problem is how to distract their  attention.  For  this 
reason,  it  is   often easier to execute a successful theft if  you  have  an 

    Part B: Multiple party theft

    In  a  multiple  party  theft,  the  basics  are  the  same  but   certain
adjustments  must  be  made to your plan. First you must decide  who  will  do 
what...  One person as  to  distract  the  attention of onlookers  while   the
other  performs  the actual  crime. You should have included a signal in  your 
plan  so that  the  you can  discretely  inform  your buddy that you have  the 
goods  and   it's  time  to leave.  A third person may have been posted  as  a 
look-out and if so, must  also be  kept aware of what's going' on. 

 One  of the important tricks is to make it look like you don't  know  any
of your  accomplishes... don't walk in together or leave together, unless  you
get burned.  If  you are confronted, then it is not always necessary  for  all
the members of your team to flee if you have successfully convinced the teller
you are not together. 

 The  guy  with the goods has to split BUT while the  Cashier  is  chasing
him, or  calling the cops, what better opportunity will the other two have  to
fill  their pockets? If it becomes necessary for all parties to run, at  least
you  now have  an  added benefit due to the fact that if you split  up,   it's
harder   to catch  all  of you. It is an unwritten rule that a guy  who   gets
caught  can't squeal on the others if there is a chance they can get away with 
it. You should have  a specified rendezvous point and time if you split up  so 
all  the   parties  (minus  those  who were bagged) can  meet  and  decide  on 
appropriate  actions  to take  to insure no further problems will arise. 

 After  a few hits with the same people, you should have a  kick-ass  team 
and will be able to tackle anything! One thing though, always watch your  back 
cause as Stalin said "You can't trust anyone, not even yourself."

    Part C: Other forms of theft

 Well,   if  your not into stealing' from convenience  stores,  there  are
many  available  sources of "low-cost" items, such as cars, houses,  purses  &
wallets and my personal favorite... school lockers! 

 Cars  are  easy... just get a 1.5 ft. long piece of flexible  but  sturdy 
wire  (coathanger  will do) and bend a loop at the end to fit over  the   lock
button.  Slide  the  wire through the gap between the window  and  the  middle 
section  of the car  (not the top of the window). Now loop the end around  the 
lock   button   and pull. For newer cars that do not have the  lockbutton  but 
have  the  switch  by the lever  on  the  inside door  panel,  you  need  more 
equipment.  You  will  need  a flashlight, a mirror and a coathanger. 

 Before  you  begin,  look through the opposite window at  the  door  your
gonna open  and memorize where everything is positioned. Now, tape the  mirror 
to   the  outside of that window with the reflective surface facing  into  the 
car.  If   you have  a friend helping you, you don't need the mirror  as  your 
friend can  stand on  the opposite side of the car and see through that window 
where  you  have   to move. Now slip the coathanger in as above  and  use  the 
window to bend it as  you insert  it  so it touches the inside of the  door... 
using  the  mirror  or  your friend to guide your movements, unlock  the  door 
and there you go! 

 If  you  are in a hurry or don't need to worry about noise  or  anything, 
just throw  a  brick  through the window. Remember to search  the   dashboard,
glove  compartment and back window ledge. If you have a lock pick set and  can 
use   it,  go   for   the  trunk to!

 Motorcycles are a cinch to swipe. All you need are a pair of  vice-grips, 
a  screwdriver  and a dime. Jam the screwdriver into the ignition,  clamp  the
vice-grips  to  the shaft of the screwdriver and twist... -=SNAP!=-  Now  just 
press the start  button and away you go! When you've had your fun and ya wanna 
ditch   the  bike,   drop  the dime into the ignition keyhole and  give  it  a 
quarter turn to turn off the engine.

 Now,  the most risky but often most profitable source is a house.  Before 
you even  approach the house, phone to make sure they're not in. If you  don't
have  their number or they are a bunch of rug-pilots who don't have  a  phone, 
ring  the  doorbell... once you have established the fact that  they  are  not 
home, you  can decide  on  your method of entry. 

 To   break  into  a  house, Your two sources  of  entry  are  doors   and
windows.  Before   I  start  describing methods to  bypass  locks  and  bolts, 
remember that  if you think there is a security system on the house FORGET  IT 
and  move on...  why risk it? Anyway, there are many types of door  locks  and 
for  most  you  will   need a  lock pick set which will be  dealt  with  in  a 
separate chapter. If you have  a lot  of  time and are in a deserted area, you 
can use various  power  tools  to destroy  the  door  itself. Windows are  the 
harder to  reach  but  more  simply bypassed  entry routes. There is either  a 
deadbolt  or a simple twist/pull  lock for  both, you just blow a hole in  the 
window  just above the lock (with a  bee-bee  gun)  or bar and use wire  or  a 
thin screwdriver to knock the  bar  out  or release  the lock. 

 Apartment  buildings  are also a good target... just go  into  the  front 
doors  and  press every intercom button on the panel. Some deluded idiot  will 
let   you  in.   If  not, wait `till a resident comes in  and  pretend  to  be 
fumbling  for   the door  key... he will of course, open the door  for  you... 
Heh. Once you get  in, make  sure no one is home... then grab a pillow case or 
a garbage bag and  take everything  that  is even remotely valuable! Once  you 
have  done  that,   cut   the phone line and  GET  THE  @#$%^  OUT!!!  Mission 

    The  easiest  way to get money or goods for nothing. One way is  to  write 
down  the  serial # and the combination of the lock your using this  year  and 
then  next  year,   find  it and voila! In the mean time,  you  have  to  find 
alternate   methods to  keep you busy for a whole year, but look... there  are 
hundreds  of   lockers!  With  little peckers you can stand  behind  them  and 
simply watch them enter  the combination.  

 If  you want to hit a locker belonging to an older student, you  have  to
be  covert about it. You might as well start close to home by easily  breaking
into the  lockers on either side of yours. This method is simple but  requires
time and  you will need a hex-driver. Look at the inside panel of your  locker
that forms  the wall separating it from the adjacent one. If the heads of  the
bolts are on your side, you will have no problems. Just unscrew the bolts  and
remove the panel... Hmm... now why didn't you think of that before?

 Well,   now you know. Most of the schools supply spin combo  locks   that
are hard  to  pick so if all else fails, use those heavy duty metal shears  to
cut through the shank. Once your in, you are on your own... Have fun! 

 The  last  type of theft I will discuss is the art  of  picking  pockets.
This method  is  becoming more and more difficult with the  advent  of   self-
defense lessons... yes!... even little Grandma Johnson could be a black  belt. 
Basically  all  you  have to do is either run by the victim and snatch it,  or
wait   `till they put it down somewhere where you can whisk it away. Once  you 
have the purse or wallet, there are many things you can do... Money! I'm  sure 
you  can all find a  use for that... Credit Cards! Now we're talking! You  can 
go  crazy  ordering and  carding everything you desire (not to your  house)... 
You  may  find  a  spare key  in  there  to, if so, look at the  I.D.  in  the 
wallet   to  find  out  their address  and away you go! Geez, what a week  for 
the poor sucker eh!  First  his wallet now his house and car!!! Heh, always be 


      Chapter Nine: Destruction

 Ahhh,  there's  nothing' like a good hour of destruction to  relieve  all 
that tension  after  failing  your math exam. Yeah you remember, the  one  you
were   supposed  to be studying for while you were mixing  explosives  in  the 

 This   form  of  Anarchy allows for more creativity than  most.  You  can
stick  to   doing   mild  damage with your hands or you can  obtain   a   wide
variety  of weapons for more severe effects. It is usually easier to make your 
own   weapons and  there  are  a  large number of chapters dealing  with   the
production  of explosives and simple weapons. For a successful strike on  your 
target area, you will need the following:

  o Camouflage (dark clothing, mask)-   To prevent discovery
        & Identification

  o A small bat or solid stick/bar  -   To  eliminate  people
        or  dogs  who  get in
        the way & to increase
        destructive power

  o A small, "efficient" weapon     -   For serious  emergen-
        cies only! (knives or 
        mini-chucks are good)

  o Flashlight                      -   So  you  can see!

  o Several projectiles             -   To increase fire pow-
        er  and  range 

  o Smoke Bombs                     -  A    valuable    tool,

  o FIRE                            -  .......... A  MUST!!!!

  o Explosives                      -  Not compulsory for the
       job  but   they   sure
       add  a  spark  to  the

  o Spray Paint                     -  To   mark   out   your
       territory  &  let  the
       world  know  you  were

  o Lock Picks & a Bag              -  Just in  case  an easy
       target    for    theft
       presents itself  while
       your vandalizing.

      Part A: Home-Made Weapons


    These   little  babies are easy to make and are easily  concealable.   All
you  need  are  a pair of those metal nut-crackers and a 2 foot   length    of
chain.  First,  take the nut crackers and cut through the  hinge  with  metal-
shears,  being sure  to leave the rivets intact. Now open up the last link  at 
each  end  of  the chain  and close them around the rivet shaft on  the  metal 
bars. HEY! Look  what you've done... little nun-chakaus.

    Tennis Ball Bombs:

    Cut   a  one  inch slit in the tennis ball and stuff  it  full  of  wooden
match-heads.  (A little gunpowder adds to the effect) Once the ball is  firmly
packed,  it   will  detonate on contact with a solid surface  producing  large
amounts of flame and flaming projectiles.

    Flaming Darts/ Exploding Darts:

    Take   ordinary  darts  and wrap an oil soaked strip  of  rag  around  the
shaft. Then  just  light and throw. For an exploding dart, tie a cherry   bomb
to  the shaft using a twist tie and light the fuse.

    Molocov Cocktail:

    Fill  a  Pepsi  bottle half way to the top with gasoline,  insert  a  rag,
light and throw... instant hell fire!

      Part B: Interesting Ideas

    Try out these nasty thoughts on your local loser:

    Personalized  Lawns:

    Sure!  Why  not  leave your initials on the guys lawn  using  gasoline  or
weed-killer?   Better   yet,  if  your artistic, a  graphic  picture  of   him
pumping the local stray dog... heh, long-lasting damage!

 Hose Through The Mail Slot:

 Stick   the  end of the garden hose through the mail slot  in  his  door,
then crank  the faucet and run like a *&^%er! If you do this at 3am, his house
will be floating down the street before he even wakes up.

 Address Switching:

 Use your trusty screwdriver to switch address numbers and steal mailboxes 
throughout   the  neighborhood. Heh, if you find the right  numbers,  you  can
make  three  houses in a row with the same address, the fun part is  when  you 
order  a party-size  pizza to that address. (If you are really on the ball you
can rip off the delivery car while Guido is walking from door to door).

    Part C: The Fun Part

 Once  you  have all your equipment, your ready to go.  Easy  targets  are
mail  boxes, bird feeders, X-mas lights (when in season) and greenhouses.  The
weapon you  will  use most is the bat or steel bar you brought along  in  your
trusty Anarchist's  bag. Remember to spray paint the traditional encircled "A" 
where ever you go to let the world know Anarchy is alive an' well. 

 If   you  possess  a  slight sadistic streak,  domestic  pets  can   make
amusing targets.  The  classic " "cement shoes" is good to drown the neighbors
cat   in  their  pool. Fire can be used in countless ways  to  destroy  almost 
anything.   The good part is once you've set the fire, it will continue to  do 
damage  while  you are running' to the next target. The interesting  thing  is 
when you are  spotted and chased. 

 Now   you  have to use some direct methods to evade  capture.  Start  off
mild  by   simply  running. If they persist, create obstacles as you   go   by
knocking  things   down  in your wake, jumping' fences, cars,  etc..  If  that 
fails,   try   a   few smoke bombs lobbed over your shoulder  to  block  their 
view...  NO! Hmmmm well it's  time  to get serious because you smoke too  much 
to stay ahead  for  long. Sooo,  use  the explosives... that should do it  but 
if  not,  just  turn  around, whip out the projectiles or the weapon  of  your 
choice an' just beat the living' &^%$#  out of `em. Now you can go home, being 
sure  to spray paint an  encircled "A"  on Mr. Johnson's bleeding  forehead... 
(heh, I doubt he'll chase  you  next time).

       Chapter Ten: Deception

 Well,   anyone   who  has done anything similar to  the  acts   described
above must also have found it necessary to lie once in a while. Remember  that 
to  get away  with  lying,  you must make the lie seem like reality.  If   you
convince  yourself   that  it is true then others are more likely  to  believe 
you.  It's  a good idea to make sure all the people involved in the caper have 
the exact same story. 

 Always  stick  to  your  story  and never stray  from  it.  Try  to  have 
supporting  evidence on your side too, go for realism! Unfortunately, no  book 
is  gonna turn a lousy liar into a good one... it has to be in your blood,  it 
does, honest!

      Chapter Eleven: Sub-Forms

    Aside   from  the  themes  outlined above, there are  many   other   forms
of  Anarchial  behavior.  Some  people  are  specialists  in  one  area   like 
Pyromaniacs or  assasins.  Others  tend to be less proficient in a wider range
of   areas.   For those of you who are specialists, SPEAK UP! There  are  many 
people  who  are  hungry  for  material  which you  could  provide  from  your 
experience.  Those of  you  who don't  even bother and are just  reading  this 
book  for   entertainment...  "*&^% OFF!"  I don't have time for pussies...  I 
would  suggest that you find out  what your specific interests are and  pursue 
them.  Whatever your topic is, there is a book on it somewhere... believe  me! 
If  you are not sure where your skills  lie, then  start small until you  find 
them.  I know your all probably saying  "C'mon, get on with it  @$$hole!"  So, 
here we go...

   Chapter Twelve: Weapons & Explosives


    Assuming that you have read the first bit in this series and that you  are 
a  true  Anarchist,  I'm  sure you will find this  chapter  both   interesting
and  useful.   We   have   compiled some of the easiest  to  make   but   most
destructive  devices  in  the Anarchist's arsenal  of  home-made  weapons  and 
explosives.  A   true  Anarchist  has  a remarkable ability  to  overcome  any 
obstacle  using  only  the materials at his disposal. I am not saying that you 
need  to know 100  different ways to kill a man with a stapler, just that  you 
should be able to get by using whatever  you  have.  This  chapter  shows  you 
a   few  ways  to  increase  your destructive  power  using  simple  household 
items.  Remember   that   there  is  a certain element  of  risk  involved  in 
handling  some  of the devices which you will see,  so  please   use  caution. 
Neither  myself  nor anyone  associated  with  the creation   of   this   book
will take any responsibility  for  damage  or  injury sustained as a result of 
attempting any of the procedures depicted. 

      Part A: Home-Made Explosives

    The Motor Mine

    This  device causes basically the same damage as the "basic mine", but  it 
is  more  convenient  if  the intended victim  happens  to  miss  stepping  on 

    Materials:     Film Canister ( or any container )
     Match Books ( 17 fill a Black's film canister )

     Wire ( preferably long lengths )

     Small Electric Motor

     Battery & Push-button Switch


 First,   take  the lid of your container and make a small  hole  in   it. 
This  should  be big enough to hold the axle of the motor snugly. You need  to 
make  a small cardboard disk or,  if you can find one,  a small plastic  gear-
like  piece  meant to fit on an electric motor. You have to cover  this  small 
disk ( about  1 cm. wide ) with the brimstone from the matchbooks. 

 Fill  the container with match-heads, push the motor's axle  through  the 
lid and  push the disk onto the axle from the other side.  Now put on the  lid 
and tape the whole thing up, plus the motor so it doesn't wobble around.  Hook
your  wire   up   to the terminals on the motor and then to  a  switch  or   a
battery   or whatever.  Conceal  the  mother and stand back. You will hear   a
high  pitched screech of the motor grinding and then BOOM!  Works well.

       Time Bomb

  This  device isn't too hard to make, but it does have  a  limitation.
It  doesn't work on the principle that the time you set it to is when it  goes
off, it's more of a mechanical thing....just read.


     o Some sort of container
     o Wooden Matches ( 17 boxes fill a film canister but if
        you want a bigger bomb, buy about 50 or
        so boxes and fill a 2ltr. pop bottle.
     o Small Electric Motor
     o Friction Disk ( see previous file "motor mine" )
     o Wire
     o Battery ( 9 volt should do it )
     o Cheap Clock with hands
     o Electrical Tape

     1) Make the "motor mine" explained above.
     2) Instead of both leads going straight to the battery,
    you will have a clock in between, with the faceplate
    taken off.
     3) Tie the positive and negative leads to the clock hands
    and set them to an appropriate distance apart.
     4) When the hands meet, this will complete the circuit
    which will start the motor. The Friction disk will spin
    and rub against the matchheads and KABOOM!!

    Note:  To increase the power of this device, gun powder may be added to
    The match-heads to fill the container.

    Here's a Diagram:                                   __________
     Clock with hands-> !  \    __!___
   ________________________________!___\ /~  !  |
     |  ___________              _    !   ~o    !  |
     +-~           |_______+___-/ |   !         !  |
     ____##____<-Motor         [   ]  |   !_________!  |
     !* * * * *!               [9v ]  |                |
     !* * * * *!               [___]  |________________|
     !* * * * *!
     !* * * * *!                 ^
     !* * * * *!                Battery
     Container filled with match-heads

      Napalm Bomb

    Napalm  is, in itself a very simple substance.  It can be used  for 
in the construction of many simple explosive weapons. Here's a good one:

  ----------     Gasoline            Dishsoap (Joy is good)
   A Nail              Ammonia Pellets
   A Drill             Flexible Wire
   A Coke can


    [1]  First, make a mixture of 1/2 Dish-soap and 1/2 Gasoline.
    [2]  Cut the top off of the Coke can and fill it with the mixture.
    [3]  Take the drill and put a hole in the ammonia pellet big enough so
  that the nail can fit through it.
    [4]  Put the nail through the pellet and wire it to the top of the can
  so that the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the pellet to
  drop into the mixture.
    [5]  Attach some string or fishing line to the nail head and detonate
  from a distance by pulling the string.

 SAFE OR YOUR WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!  Wait until you are ready
 to set it off to pull the string... It should look like this:

       Ammonia Pellet
      <====[*]====() <- Nail
      |           |
      |           | <- Coke Can
      |           |
      |===========| <- Mixture

      Das Crackkerwork!

    Das Crackkerwork:   A neat way to scare the $#!^ out of someone and to
    ----------------   cause moderate amounts of damage.

    Materials:         o A rocket engine (The bigger the better but class
    ----------                            A will do fine)
     o A fire cracker

     o Tape

     o A kick-ass nature

  First,  take  the engine, it will have one hollow end and  the  other
end  is   filled   with  the  rocket  fuel  (it  resembles  clay).   Take    a
screwdriver   or something hard and start grinding up the substance  from  the 

  Don't   grind   up  the  thing totally though.  Now  put   the   fire
cracker inside the engine, with the fuse sticking out of the convenient  hole. 
The  hole is usually used for solar flares.

 Now tape up the son of a bitch so that it's black an' mean looking.

 Finally,  light  it and throw it, the fire cracker will  go  off  (but 
won't  damage   the   engine), then the engine will ignite  and  go   whipping
around.  It makes a lot of ruckus and the exhaust can cause damage.


   |__|   <- Fire-cracker inside engine body
   |  |      and fuse through little hole in
   |  |      rocket substance.

  Basically, it looks like one mean fire-cracker...

  Have fun with Das Crackkerwork !

      Smoke Bomb

    Materials                        Diagram
   -----------                      ---------

    -   Coffee can    -              screen  \ <-fuse
    -   Fuse or Rag  -                    \__\___
    -   Gunpowder    -                    !__/___!
    -   Motor Oil    -                    !  \   !<- gunpowder
    -   Screen       -       coffee can ->!__/___!
    -   Lighter      -                    !______!<- motor oil

   1) Pour a 1/2 inch layer of motor oil into the coffee can.
   2) Pour in some gun powder ( The more, the merrier )
   3) Cut a 6" diameter circle of metal screening and poke a
   small hole in the center of it.
   4) Place the screen on top of the can and secure it.
   5) Insert a dry fuse or oiled rag through the screen so
   that it reaches the bottom of the can.
   6) Light the fuse.

    This device will produce extremely large amounts of smoke and flame.

     How To Make A Fuse

   One   reason   for which many well made bombs fail is the  lack  of   a
good fuse. To make a dry fuse, you will need the following:

   o Several sheets of tissue paper (The kind used for machee)
   o Gasoline/Kerosene
   o Gunpowder
   o A paint brush
   o Patience

   1) Use the paint brush to apply a thin film of gasoline on a
   sheet of tissue paper.
   2) Let dry
   3) Sprinkle a thin line of gunpowder onto the paper
   4) Roll the paper up tightly from one end
   5) Apply a few more layers by repeating steps 1&2 and rolling
   each new layer around the existing fuse.
   6) Let the whole thing sit for a couple of hours
   7) Apply a final coating of gasoline with the paintbrush
   8) After it is completely dry, it will work beautifully

    -------   Experiments are currently being done in an attempt to design
   a fuse which will burn under water.

     Tennis Ball Grenade

  Most  of  you have probably heard of the Tennis Ball Bomb.  It  is  a 
handy  explosive or noisemaker. The Tennis Ball Grenade is based on  the  same 
idea  but does more damage.

    You will need the following:

  1) A Tennis Ball
  2) A Knife
  3) Several boxes of wooden matches (not safety matches)
  4) Hockey Tape
  5) Gunpowder
  6) A Sparkler
  7) Flint


  1) Cut a small round hole in the ball with the knife
  2) Take the flint (the kind used for flip-top lighters) and crush
     it into a powder
  3) Separate the wire handle from the sparkler and grind it up
  4) Mix the flint and sparkler powder together with gunpowder
  5) Pour the mixture into the tennis ball
  6) Cut off the match-heads and pack the ball with them until you
     can't fit anymore into it.
  7) Use the tape to cover the hole completely
  8) The grenade will explode on contact with any solid surface,
     producing large amounts of flame and flaming projectiles.
  9) [optional] For a delayed blast grenade, insert a dry fuse into
     the hole before you tape it up.

    These   babies are easy to make, light weight, concealable and  do  plenty
of damage for their general, a kick-ass weapon. You can make dozens
of them for hours of enjoyment.

     The Boom-Box

  The   Boom-Box  is  simple  to make and is very  effective.   It   is
an antipersonnel device and works on one or more victims.


   o A metal box with a hinged lid
   o String
   o A mouse trap
   o C-4 or any volatile plastic explosive
   o Tape


   1) Secure the mousetrap to the bottom of the box (inside)
   with tape.
   2) Tie a piece of string to the trip-bar of the mouse trap
   3) Place a wad of C-4 where the cheese would normally go and
   be sure that the spring loaded bar will hit it
   4) Set the trap
   5) CAREFULLY tape the other end of the string to the inside
   of the lid so that it is taught when only half open
   6) Close the box
   7) Leave the box somewhere where the intended victim will find
   it, when he does...he will open it and BOOM!

      / \ <- lid
     string -> /   \
      |   /      |
      | o/____   |
     mouse trap ->  | =======  | <- metal box
      with C-4      ~----------~

     Exploding Pen

  This   device   is hardly a weapon but it is a  mild  explosive   and
will  serve as a good prank or practical joke. If you wanted to  increase  the 
power  of the  explosive,  it  would not be hard to hard to turn it   into   a
destructive device with a few alterations to the construction.


   1) A ball point "click" pen
   2) Gun powder
   3) 8-10 wooden match heads
   4) 1 wooden match
   5) A piece of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")


   1) Unscrew pen and remove all parts except for the button at
   the top of the pen
   2) Stick the match inside the pen where the ink fill was
   3) Roll the sand paper around the match with the rough side
   facing in so it touches the match head
   4) Put the remaining match heads in, be sure they are inside
   the sand paper
   5) Put a wax stopper in the other end of the pen where the ball
   point came out
   6) Fill the front part of the pen with gunpowder and make sure
   that the wax prevents it from spilling out

    The finished pen should look like this:

   Wax stopper          Gun powder              Matches & Sandpaper
     \                    |                           |
  \                   |                           |
   \   _______________|___________________________|________
   Basically,   anywhere  there  is writing to be done,  there   is
a target for this device. Think of exams!! Heh, I don't think many people will 
be asking to borrow a pen from now on. 

     The Cat Bomb

    This  bit is for amusement only. We suggest that you do not try  this  out
at home.

    It   has  come to my attention that a real panic can be  generated  by   a
cat-bomb in a supermarket or department store.

    A cat-bomb is a simple and inexpensive thing to make.

    1 cat - large
    1 sparkler or 1 ft. of waterproof fuse
    1 acetylene/oxygen torch
    1 book of matches

    Squeeze all air and $#!^ out of cat, being careful not to kill same.
    Insert torch nozzle into cat's ass.
    Turn on a 50/50 mixture of the gasses, inflating the cat to approximately
    1/3 larger than normal.
    Insert either sparkler or fuse into cat's ass being careful to minimize
    gas release (some recommend stapling the orifice shut after insertion
    of fuse) very messy!

    Place cat in a place of demonstration, and light fuse with matches.
    Retire quickly to a safe place, (entrails will be a-flying soon)

    Recent   experiments   with  larger  animals  have  shown  a   10   minute
railroad  flare to be of substantially greater sealing capacity than the  fuse 
or  sparkler  method. Greater gas retention and thus a greater  explosion  are 
possible in this manner.

     Part B: Chemical Explosives

     Astrolite Mixtures


  Astrolite   is   a liquid explosive which was a product   of   rocket 
propellant  research  in the 60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is said to be  the  world's 
most powerful non-nuclear explosive. It is approximately 2 times more powerful
than TNT and is safer to handle.

    Astrolite G

  Astrolite  G  is  a clear liquid  explosive  especially  designed  to 
produce  very  high detonation velocity, 8600 mps (meters/sec.) compared  with 
7,700   mps for  nitroglycerin  and  6,900  mps  for  TNT...In   addition,   a
very   unusual characteristic  is  that the liquid explosive has  the  ability
to   be   absorbed easily into the ground while  remaining  detonatable...  In 
field  tests, Astrolite G  has remained detonatable in the ground for 4  days, 
even after being  exposed to rain.


  Mix   2   parts  (by  weight)  of  ammonium  nitrate  with   1   part
anhydrous  hydrazine.  The 2:1 ratio is not exactly perfect but if  you  screw
around  with the  mixture,  you will find a better formula. Hydrazine is quite 
hard   to   get ahold of. It is used in; Rocket fuel,  agricultural  chemicals 
(maleic    hydrazide),    drugs    (antibacterial     &     antihypertension),
polymerization   catalyst,  solder fluxes,  photographic development &  diving 
equipment. Hydrazine is  a  chemical that you should be careful with.

    Astrolite A/A-1-5

  Mix  20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,  and  then 
mix  with  the  hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100  mesh  or  finer.
Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800 mps.

      Sodium Chlorate Mixtures

    Sodium Chlorate:

  Sodium   chlorate  is  similar to potassium chlorate,  and  in   most
cases  can  be  a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble  in  water.
You  can find  sodium chlorate at any hardware/home improvement store.   It is
used  in blowtorches and you can get about 3 lbs. for $7.50

    SC Rocket Fuel
    Mix 50% sodium chlorate
 35% rubber cement
 10% epoxy resin hardener
  5% sulfur

    You   may  want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the  purity   you
are using.

    SC Incendiary Mixture                 SC Impact Mixture
    ---------------------                 -----------------
    Mix 55% aluminum powder              Mix 50% red phosphorus
 45% sodium chlorate                   50% sodium chlorate
  5% sulfur

    SC Filler Explosive                   SC Gunpowder
    -------------------                   ------------
    Mix 85% sodium chlorate               Mix 65% sodium chlorate
 10% vaseline                          22% charcoal
  5% aluminum powder                  13% sulfur
       A sprinkling of graphite

     Chapter Thirteen: General Anarchy

    J.L.   Hudsons!    Bring  a good, strong magnet with you, and   head   for
the clothing section... Look at the clothes on the rack, look at the tag...
    |                   |
    | X X X   X   X X X |

 See   that   row  of  colons ^^ I  drew?   Well,  that   represents   the
magnetic strip which they use for inventory purposes.  If you erase this strip 
with  the magnet, the cash register won't be able to read the tag and the lady 
will   have  to  enter  the whole number... this gets very nasty if you  erase
the   tags  on almost  every  shirt, blouse, etc. in the store... most of  the 
stuff  has  more than one tag, be sure to erase both... 

 Anywhere:   Bring  a  small  screwdriver with  you,  find  one  of  those
drinking fountains that has a cooling system, (it makes a humming sound  every 
so   often, and  there  is a fan).. Reach underneath, behind it and  find  the
coolant  line that is the largest.  Next, find the little valve on it, it will 
have  a  cap   on it.   Remove  the cap and you will see  what  looks  like  a 
bicycle-  type  valve.  Poke  it with the screwdriver until some air is sucked 
into  the   system..   Then get out of there, the compressor  will  make  some 
strange noises, then will quit.  In  a  few minutes, it will cool off, and try 
to start again. This  cycle  will destroy the compressor...ha.

 Restrooms:    Take the toilet paper and pull off a section about  4  feet
in  length.   Stick  it in the toilet the flush it down.. If you  still   have
your screwdriver,  turn  the  water inlet valve to full - this is that   valve
on  a normal toilet...


 It's   a  little hard to understand, but it is usually capped,  take  off
the  cap.   If  you do it right, the whole roll of toilet paper will  be  gone
in  no time - keep doing it 'till it floods...!

 Any   Store!   Some stores have a security system that employs  the   use
of little  plastic  buttons,  slips, or disks that are  fastened  to  articles
of  clothing.    Inside these articles are a piece of  copperish-looking  foil
coated with  some green plastic marked, "Inventory Control - Property of   the
Store."  (In  some cases, this piece of plastic is placed on a string  all  by 

 Take   this piece of plastic and do any of the following - drop it   into
a bag or the pocket of another piece of clothing, (they won't be able to  find
it but  it will trigger the alarm all the time!).. Find a little kid  standing
all  by   himself,  and tell him it's a special magic card, and  to  keep  it!
(Once   he  leaves,   the   alarm   will go off,  and  his  parents  will  get
busted..)   Or,  of course, you can drop it into the bag of another  customer, 
that's always fun.. 

 Any   Large Department Store:  Sometimes there are phones  laying  around
in unsupervised  check-out  booths, (like in hudson's or something), pick   up
the  phone,   and dial a three digit number - this usually connects  you  with
another  part of the store - after some real pranking around the whole  store, 
you  might want  to walk around and see what you've done; (usually, there will 
be a  small store directory taped into the handset, it always comes in handy.)

 The    HardWare   Department:    Find  a  small   cylinder   of    methyl
acetylene  propeniene,  (or the tradename "mapp"), and jam a small  nail  into 
the top,  not allowing  too much gas to escape at one time... The smell of the 
gas   you   will soon  find out is -->terrible<--  and if left  around  slowly 
releasing the  gas, it might cause an explosion, (if it is near the electrical 
and lighting dept.), or most likely it will cause some really pissed customers 
who smell the  stuff; it really smells bad!!

 Elevators:   Remember when your parents got pissed when you  messed  with 
the  buttons   on   an  elevator?   Well, forget that  -  find   the   switch,
usually   a  pushtype, and turn it off when you are at a floor.   Most  people 
don't know  how the hell to work it, and will get quite pissed... 

 Also,  push  and  stick one of the buttons down, (lets  say  the  highest
floor  so it is in a non-traffic area), with some gum or tape or a  nail;  the
elevator  will   always seek that floor when it's not being  called  by  other 
floors -  over time, it becomes slower and slower...

 At  A  Large  Department Store:  Find one of those  brass  disks  on  the 
floor.. Stand  on it and turn your whole body counter-clockwise to unscrew it.
Take   a  look  inside,  and you'll see a pair of wires that look  very  thin, 
there   is   a good  chance that those are serial register bus  wires.   Strip 
them,  (with  your handy-dandy swiss), and touch them together, if there is  a 
small  spark,  you're in  luck.   If there is a large spark forget  where  you 
read  this  -  this  will effectively  knock  out all the  data  transmissions 
from  each   register  to  the master computer, depending on the  setup,  each 
register might go dead.. (What  a mess...)

    Chapter Fourteen: More easy gadgets

    These  devices  aren't of the chemical nature, so they shouldn't  be  hard
for  anyone   to  build.  They are also the kinds  of  devices  which  can  be
improved  by simply making them bigger.


      Simple mine  

 This    is    where  it all started. The simple land mine  is   used   in
other  devices.  The  device itself isn't complicated, but takes  patience  to
make  it work well.

   Materials: Film Canister (or Folger's Coffee
    can  if  you  wanna blow away the

    Packs of  matches (17 fill a film


    First,   take the lid of the canister or can, etc. and cut a  square  hole
in  the lid the width of the striking strip on a book of matches (about  5mm). 
Next,  cut  4 striker strips off the matchbooks. With these you  must  make  a 
"box".   You might want to leave an extra millimeter of cardboard on the  edge 
of  the  strips,  and   bend them so you can glue  the  edges  of  each  strip 
together.  Because  it's hard to glue just edges together. 

 Form   the  box around a pencil or something, so you  can  have   support
when  gluing  it. Make sure the whole inside of the box is the brimstone  side 
of   the strips.  What it will look like when it's made is a 3cm  long  hollow
box,  with the ends open. You then push this box halfway through the lid  with 
the  hole  in it. Now cut the joint edges of the box only on the top  side  of 
the  lid, so  you can fold these sides down to the lid, to hold it better.  It 
now will look  like a  lid,  will a cross of cardboard on the top side, and on 
the   underside,  the rest  of  the box is sticking out. Next cut  your  match 
heads off and  fill  the canister.  

 Then,   take   2 or 3 matches, tape them together  tightly,  and   insert
them  Carefully in the "box" from the top side of the lid. MAKE SURE they  fit 
snugly, otherwise  they'll  slip  about and won't strike the insides  of   the
box  and therefore light everything else. 

 Finally,   put  the  lid  on, and tape the son of a bitch  up   as   much
as possible, over the lid as well. Bury the whole thing in the ground so  just
the "button"  (the  2  or 3 matches, which are about half way  into  the  box)
are  sticking   above  ground. And when someone steps on it, BOOM!  Of  course
with   a film canister, the explosion isn't too big, but if you had  a  Godamn 
coffee can, you  could blow someone's foot off. Or a 2 litre pop bottle, using 
the  cap  in place of the lid!!

     String Cannon

 Once again, the basic principle of the mine is used here.

Materials:      Container.


  Piece of piping with one end closed off (make
  sure  it  is possible  to  put  a hole in the
  closed end  though).   ABS piping  (available
  at  Home  Hardware)  Blacks is  good  because  
  the film  canisters fit  PERFECTLY.  But only 
  the   see  through   ones.  Ask   Blacks  for 
  TRANSPARENT film canisters.


  Violent nature.

    Ok,  make a basic mine (you MUST have the mine to do this). But don't  put 
in  the   match heads yet. Pierce a hole in the bottom of the  canister   (big
enough  for  strong  string to fit through). Now, once you have made the 2  or
3   match button  (from the first mine explained) you will be pulling it  from 
the  bottom rather than stepping on the top. 

    Tie   the   string  to the matches in the brimstone box and   then   bring
the  string through the bottom of the canister, fill the canister  with  match
heads, and put on the lid. Once again, the more you tape, THE BETTER. You want 
to  hold this  explosion as much as possible, so when it  goes off it's   more
powerful.  Put a hole (for the string) in the blocked end of the  piping.  You
might  find  it hard  to  the  string through, but try and get  it  through  a 
small  a  hole  as possible.  You  don't  want anything coming out the back! 

 A   good  idea is to, insert the string through the pipe,  THEN  do   the
rest explained  above. And drop the mine CAREFULLY down to the bottom of   the
pipe.  Now walk around like you have a shotgun and whenever you want  to  blow 
something  away,   just  point and pull the string. A spray  of  match  heads,
fire,  plastic bits etc. will fly out, pretty impressive I guess.


 Basically,   that's  exactly  what this is. It  shoots  out   projectiles 
that  explode on contact. Useful for small scale war.

Materials:  4 or 5 cans.

     Strong  tape (or a welder if you can get your
     hands on one)

     Matches (MUST be "eddy lights" (the ones with
     the different coloured tip))

     Squashball or dogball, as long as it's hollow
     (a tennis ball can be used, but you need cans
     wide enough to house it)

     Ronson's lighter fluid

     Will to blow something up.

    Basically,  this  device  is quite easily made, you just  need  some  good
tools  to do it properly. First, take one of the cans, and cut the entire  top 
of of it (this  might be hard with pop cans, since they have a high edge which
gets  in the  way of using a can opener). Then, on the bottom of the can,  cut 
about  3/4 of it out, so you have a semi-circle of tin missing on the  bottom, 
like in this diagram:

    / }******\     * = amount of tin left on bottom
   [  }*******]        of can.
   [  }*******]
    \ }******/

 Do   exactly  the same thing to all the rest of the  cans  as   explained
above (NOT the last one though), making sure that the open part in the  bottom 
of  each can  alternates with the one below it. In other words, if you  looked
down  the barrel  of  the thing, you'd see a semi-circle missing on the  left,
then  the right  (directly opposite) then the left etc. It must look this way.

 When  you  get to your last can, leave the bottom on and  still  cut  the 
whole  top off. Now you must tape/weld all these cans together (with  the  one 
with   the  bottom  on  the  bottom, naturally). This might be  hard  if   you
used   pop-cans  since the edges would be very rough (because  you'd  need  to 
actually CUT off the top, not use a  an opener). Anyway, now that's done. 

 Last,  make a small hole in the side of the bottom can (as close  as  you 
can  get to the bottom). It just has to be big enough to squirt  the  Ronson's 
inside. Next,  you need to make "Roly Poly Match Heads". You must find a  ball
that   is hollow, and will fit as best as possible in the cans, so it  doesn't 
wobble  too much,  but doesn't have trouble coming out the end. 

 Make  a  small slice in the ball (not a hole), and start pouring  in  cut
off match  heads (eddy lights, remember) until it's quite tightly packed.  Put
this  down  the  barrel of the mortar, tilt it upright at about a  45   degree
angle.  Squirt   some  ronsons into the small hole at the bottom  (and  a  bit
around   the hole, in case it doesn't catch right away), light it,  and  BOOM. 
The  ball should go  VERY far if the cannon is made well, and it will  explode 
when it  lands  to boot!

       Simple Rocket Launcher

Materials: ABS piping  (at  least  8  cm  diameter, so the
    fins of the rocket can  be  fit  inside, and it
    should  be   about  4  feet  long).   Also  get
    a smaller piece of ABS piping about 1 foot long
    and 3 inches wide  (home hardware will tell you
    what  diameters  the  piping comes in exactly). 
    This one foot piece will need to be cut in half 
    with a hack saw.

    Switch (get it at Radio shack)

    9 volt battery

    Alligator clips (Radio shack of $#!^)

    Small rocket (buy smallest  size at Merry  Land 
    toys at Bloor and Yonge)

    3 "A" sized engines.

    Solar flares (3 come with the engines, but it's
    good to get another pack of them)

    Mine.  This  is if you want an explosion at the 

    Relatively   easy   (as  I always say) to build. After  you've   cut   the
small piece of ABS in half. Tape the two "handles" to the bottom of the larger
piece of  ABS (the launcher itself), one will act as the front handle, and the
other will  have  the "switch" on it. 

 Tape  them in places where it's comfortable to  you. You will be  holding 
it  most  likely  on  your  right shoulder, and your left arm  will   be   out
front  supporting   you, and your right arm will be close into you,  ready  to
pull   the  switch,  and the back end of the barrel will be  resting  on  your 
shoulder   (don't  worry, barely anything comes out the back, just  a  bit  of 

 Next    put   the  rocket  together  (you  can  read  the    instructions
yourself).  *BUT*,   since  the  rocket only supplies fins for the  back   end
(because  your supposed to be launching it up, not less than something like 70 
degrees   (which is considered "ballistic")), you will have to make  makeshift 
fins  for  the   from  so the rocket is pointing  straight  ahead  inside  the 
launcher, not the from  end sagging  down,  and  only  the back end up. 

 The   good  part about getting  he smallest rocket  is,  the  transparent
film  canisters (once again, they are the better of the two types, so ask  for 
those),  have  sort  of a circle that juts out on the lid, which fits  EXACTLY
into  the cardboard  body of the rocket. So, voila, you can put a mine on  the
front.   It seems  they  make  these things fit nicely just for us   anarchist
doesn't  it? 

 Anyway,   once  you have the rocket built, you should now  hook  up  some
long wire  to the switch you have, and have one end going to the battery,  and
from  the  other  terminal  on the battery to the rocket, and the  other   end
of  the switch to the rocket. Here's a diagram...


 ________________<-----__      < rocket inside
  II         *II

  ^                            * = switch
   front handle

Close up diagram:

      + -

  _____________________] ]   < put alligator clips
  [         _____________]     on  ends  of  these
&&&&&&&&&&&&&[&& H  & ]&&&&&&&&&&&&&&     wires (which should
  [ & A  & ]                   be taped along  the
on/off >    \# & N  & ]                   body     of     the
switch       [ & D  & ]                   launcher) and clamp
  [ & L  & ]                   them to the   solar
  [_& E  &_]                   flare,   which   is
       in the  back of the
 & = ABS plastic

 Obviously,  if you have a mine, the "button" on the top of the mine  will 
be  facing   outwards,  so  when it lands, boom. The weight  of   the   engine
should  balance  the  weight of the bomb on the front. Well, there  you   have
it.  Just point, and launch!

    Chapter Fifteen: Complex Explosives

    This    chapter   deals   with  the  instructions   for   creating    some
dangerous explosives.  If  you  intend to make any of these explosives, do  so
in   SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, as they are all dangerous and could seriously  injure 
or  kill   you  if done in larger amounts. If you don't  know  anything  about 
chemistry,  DON'T  DO  THESE   EXPERIMENTS! I am not  joking  in  giving  this 
warning.  Unless  you   have   a death  wish, you shouldn't  try  any  of  the 
following unless you have  had  prior experience with chemicals.

    I   am  not responsible for any injury or damage caused  by  people  using
this  information.   It  is  provided  for  use  by  people  knowledgeable  in
chemistry   who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle  such 

     Part A: Common "weak" explosives

 A. Gunpowder:
 75% Potassium Nitrate
 15% Charcoal
 10% Sulfur

  The   chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (separately!)   with
a mortar & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but 
if  in  a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases  and  can 
explode  the   container.  Gunpowder works like this:  the  potassium  nitrate
oxidizes   the  charcoal   and  sulfur,  which  then  burn  fiercely.   Carbon
dioxide  and  sulfur dioxide are the gases released.

 B. Ammonal:
 Ammonal  is  a  mixture  of ammonium nitrate  (a  strong  oxidizer)  with 
aluminum  powder   (the   'fuel'   in this case). I am not  sure  of   the   %
composition   for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using  small 

 C. Chemically ignited explosives:

  1.   A  mixture  of  1  part potassium chlorate  to  3  parts  table   sugar
(sucrose)  burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning  of  magnesium) 
when  1  drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it.  What  occurs  is 
this:  when the  acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate  to  form 
chlorine dioxide,  which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.

  2.   Using  various chemicals, I have developed a mixture  that  works  very
well  for   imitating   volcanic eruptions. I have given it  the   name   'MPG
Vulcanite'   tm).  Here it is: potassium chlorate +  potassium  perchlorate  + 
ammonium  nitrate +  ammonium  dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur 
+ iron  filings  + charcoal  +  zinc  dust + some coloring  agent.   (scarlet=
strontium   nitrate,  purple=   iodine  crystals,  yellow=  sodium   chloride, 
crimson=  calcium  chloride, etc...).

  3.  So,  do  you  think water puts out fires? In this  one,  it  starts  it. 
Mixture:  ammonium  nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust.  When  a 
drop  or  two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid  which 
reacts  with  the zinc  to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat  vaporizes  the 
iodine   (giving  off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes  purple 
when  mixed  with  iodine vapor). It also may ignite the  hydrogen  and  begin 

 Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams

    Ammonium chloride: 1 gram
 Zinc dust: 8 grams
 Iodine crystals: 1 gram

  4.   Potassium   permanganate  + glycerin when mixed  produces   a   purple-
colored  flame  in  30 secs-1 min. Works best if the  potassium   permanganate
is  finely ground.

  5.  Calcium  carbide + water releases acetylene gas  (highly  flammable  gas
used in blow torches...)

     Part B: Thermite reactions

   The   Thermite  reaction is used in welding, because it  generates   molten 
iron  and  temperatures  of  3500 C (6000F+). It  uses  one  of  the  previous 
reactions that I talked about to START it!

  Starter=potassium chlorate + sugar
  Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer)

    Put   the  potassium chlorare + sugar around and on top of the  main   pt.
To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top  of
the starter  mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts iron(III) oxide to  1
part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar.

    When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g!

    Also,   there   is  an alternative starter for  the   Thermite   reaction.
The  alternative is potassium permanganate + glycerin. Amounts: 55g  iron(III) 
oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate, 6ml glycerin.

    Part C: Nitrogen-Containing High Explosives

  A. Mercury(II) Fulminate

  To   produce  Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive  shock  explosive,
one might  assume that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to  mercury.
This  is   somewhat   difficult  since Fulminic acid is  very   unstable   and
cannot  be purchased.  I  did  some  research and figured out a way  to   make
it  without fulminic  acid.  You  add  2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts  alcohol
to  1  part mercury.  This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please, 
if  you  try this, do it in very* small amounts and tell me the results.

  B. Nitrogen Triiodide
 Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. 
Never  store  it and be careful when you're around it- sound,  air  movements,
and other tiny things could set it off.


   2-3g Iodine
   15ml conc. ammonia
   8 sheets filter paper
   50ml beaker
   feather mounted on a two meter pole
   ear plugs
   stirring rod

  Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5


   Retain  the  solid,  decant the liquid (pour off the liquid  but  keep  the
brown  solid...). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a  stack 
of   four sheets  of  filter  paper.  Divide solid into four  parts,   putting
each  on  a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry
undisturbed  for  AT LEAST 30 minutes (preferably longer). To detonate,  touch 

  C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)

   Commonly   known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is  exactly  that-
it does not give off smoke when it burns.


  70ml concentrated sulfuric acid
  30ml concentrated nitric acid
  5g absorbent cotton
  250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate
  250ml beaker
  ice bath
  paper towels

   Place   250ml   beaker  in the ice bath, add 70ml  sulfuric  acid,  30   ml
nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece  in 
the acid solution  for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive  baths
of   500ml ater.  Use  fresh  water  for each piece. Then  immerse  in   250ml
1M   sodium  bicarbonate.  If it bubbles, rinse in water once  more  until  no 
bubbling  occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.

  D. Nitroglycerin

    Nitroglycerin   is  a *VERY* dangerous shock sensitive  explosive.  It  is
used  in  making  dynamite,  among  other things. I am  not  sure  as  to  the 
proportions and amounts of chemicals to be used, so I shall use estimates.


  70ml conc. sulfuric acid
  30ml conc. nitric acid
  10 ml glycerin
  ice bath
  150ml beaker

    Put   the  150ml  beaker in the ice bath and make sure that  it  is   very
cold.  Slowly   add  the 70ml sulfuric and 30ml nitric acids  to  the  beaker,
trying   to maintain a low temperature. When the temperature starts  to  level 
off, add about 10ml  glycerin.  If  it turns brown or looks funny,  **RUN  LIKE
HELL**.  When Nitroglycerin  turns  brown, that means it's ready to explode...
If   it  stays  clear and all works well, keep the temperature as low  as  you
can and let it sit for  a few hours. You then should have some  Nitroglycerin, 
probably  mixed  with nitric  and  sulfuric  acids.  When you set it off,  you
must  not  be  nearby. Nitroglycerin  can  fill 10,000 times its original area 
with   expanding  gases. This  means that if you have 10ml's of  Nitroglycerin 
in there, it will  produce some 100,000ml's of gases.

    To  make  it  into  dynamite, the  Nitroglycerin  must  be  absorbed  into 
something like wood pulp or diamaeceous earth (spelled something like that).

     Part D: Other stuff

    A. Peroxyacetone

    Peroxyacetone   is   extremely  flammable and has been  reported   to   be
shock sensitive.


  4ml Acetone
  4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
  4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid
  150mm test tube

    Add   4ml  acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube.  Then   add
4  drops   concentrated  hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes  a  white   solid
should  begin   to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube  in  a 
water   bath  at  40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue  for  two  hours. 
Swirl  the   slurry and  filter  it. Leave out on filter paper to dry  for  at 
least   two   hours.  To ignite,  light  a candle tied to a  meter  stick  and 
light it (while  staying  at least a meter away).

    B. Smoke smoke smoke...

    The   following  reaction should produce a fair amount  of  smoke.   Since
this  reaction  is  not  all that dangerous you  can  use  larger  amounts  if 
necessary  for larger amounts of smoke.

    6g zinc powder
    1g sulfur powder

    Insert   a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of  smoke   should
be created.

   Chapter Sixteen: Stars, Flares, and Color Mixtures

    This   is serious stuff, and can be really dangerous if you  don't   treat
it  seriously.  For you kids out there who watch too many  cartoons,  remember 
that if a part of your body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS  blown 
away.  If you can't treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.

    Each  part  will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip  over  them. 
Read 'em and MEMORIZE 'em!!  At the beginning, there will be a set of  general
rules that  always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW
about the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly 
before starting anything.

    Pyrotechnic    preparations   and   explosives   are,   by   their    very 
nature,  unstable,   and subject to ignition by explosion or heat,  shock,  or 
friction.  A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in 
the   handling  of   ingredients   or   finished   products  is  necessary  if
accidents   are   to   be avoided. Always observe  all  possible  precautions, 
particularly the following:

  1. Mix  only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
     most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
     bigger  accidents.  The  power  of  an explosive cubes itself with
     every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)

  2. When  weighing  chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale
     pan for  each  item.  Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
     water before weighing the next ingredient.

  3. Be  a  safe  worker.  Dispose  of  any  chemicals  spilled  on the
     workbench  or  equipment   between  weighings.   Don't  keep  open
     containers  of  chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
     or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and
     replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.

  4. Where  chemicals  are  to  be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
     TOGETHER.  Thoroughly  wash  and  clean  equipment before grinding
     another ingredient.

  5. Mixing  of  batches  should  be done outdoors, away from flammable
     structures,  such  as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
     also be made in NON  METALLIC  containers  to  avoid sparks. Glass
     also  should  not  be  used  since  it  will shatter in case of an
     accident.  Handy  small  containers can be made by cutting off the
     top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some
     mixes may most conveniently be made by  placing the ingredients in
     a plastic bottle and rolling  around until the mixture is uniform.
     In  all  cases,  point  the  open  end  of the container away from
     yourself.  Never  hold  your  body or face over the container. Any
     stirring  should  be  done  with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
     sparks or static.

     Powdered or  ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
     a large sheet   of  paper  on a flat surface and then rolling them
     across the sheet by lifting  the  sides and corners one at a time.

  6. Never  ram  or tamp  mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
     material  in  and  gently  tap  or  shake  the  tube to settle the
     contents down.

  7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
     hazard away from  heat  and  flame. Finished  preparations  may be
     stored  in plastic  bottles which  will not  shatter in case of an
     accident.  Since many of  the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
     they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
     locked away.

  8. Be  sure  threads  of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
     cleaned. This  applies also  to containers with stoppers of rubber
     or cork  and to all  other types  of closures.  Traces of  mixture
     caught  between the container  and closure may  be ignited  by the
     friction  of opening  or closing  the  container.  Throughout  any

     Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
     lenses and frames are not flammable.

 10. Always  wear  a dust  respirator  when  handling chemicals in dust
     form.  These small  particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
     They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.

 11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.

 12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.

 13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.

 14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.

 15. Make  sure there  are NO open flames present,  and NO MOTORS (they
     produce  sparks  inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
     lights in  stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
     dust floating in the air.

 16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.

 17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
     hose, etc.)

 18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
     put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
     than a  live  hand  grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
     This includes the  very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
     been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
     please do not use metal in any circumstance.

 19. Always  be  thoroughly  familiar with the chemicals you are using.
     Some information  will be  included in  each  bit,  but  look for
     whatever  extra information you  can. Materials  that  were  once
     thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.

 20. Wash  your hands and face  thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
     forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.

 21. If  any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
     half hour or so,  you may try  to bury it, but never try to unload
     or reuse any dud.

 22. If  dust  particles  start  to  form in the air, stop what you are
     doing and leave until it settles.

 23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.

 24. NEVER  strike   any   mixture   containing   Chlorates,  Nitrates,
     Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't
     drop them, or even handle them roughly.

    These   rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but  let's   look
at  one  example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the  actress  who
played the  good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding   special
effects  got   out of hand. The actress who played the bad  witch  got  really 
messed up  by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actor  who 
played  the   Tin Man  got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum  dust  used  to 
color his  face.  

 The  actor  we  know of as the tin man was actually  a  replacement.  The
point  is,   these chemicals were being used under the direction of  people  a
lot   more  knowledgeable of chemicals than you are,  and  terrible  accidents 
still happened. Don't take this stuff lightly.

    We  will  be using the following materials this time.  Get  familiar  with 
them. Some can be highly dangerous.

Aluminum Dust (and powder)   Al

An  element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can  be  purchased
as  a   fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from  technical  to  superpure
(99.9%)  can  be used. It is dangerous to inhale the dust. The  dust  is  also 
flammable, by itself. In coarser forms, like powder, it is less dangerous.

Antimony Sulfide Sb S
     2 3

Also   known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red"  form,  which
is  useless   to  us.) This is used to sharpen the  report  of   firecrackers,
salutes, etc.,  or  to add color to a fire. The technical, black,  powder   is
suitable. Avoid contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result.

Barium Chlorate   Ba(ClO ) * H O
   3 2   2

Available   as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium  salts.   It
is  used   both   as an oxidizer and color imparter. It  is  as  powerful   as
Potassium  Chlorate   and  should  be  handled with the  same  care.   Melting
point  is  414 degrees.

Barium Nitrate  Ba(NO )
   3 2

Poisonous.  Used  as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and  precautions  are
the same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate.

Charcoal  C

A   form  of  the  element carbon. Used in  fireworks  and  explosives  as   a
reducing  agent.  It can be purchased as a dust on up to a coarse powder.  Use 
dust   form, unless  otherwise  specified. The softwood variety is  best,  and
it  should  be black, not brown.

Copper Acetoarsenite   (CuO) As O Cu(C H O )
       3  2 3    2 3 2 2

The   popular  name for this is Paris Green. It is also called  King's   Green
or  Vienna  Green.  It  has  been used as an insecticide, and   is   available
as   a  technical   grade,  poisonous, emerald green powder.  It  is  used  in
fireworks  to add color. Careful with this stuff. It contains arsenic.

Copper Chloride   CuCl

A color imparter. As with all copper salts, this is poisonous.

Copper Sulfate   CuSO *5H O
   4   2

Known  as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue  crystals 
or  blue   powder. Can be purchased in some drugstores and  some  agricultural
supply stores. Used as a colorizer.


This  can  be purchased as a white or yellow powder. It is a good  cheap  glue
for binding cases and stars in fireworks.

Lampblack   C

This  is  another  form of the element carbon. It is a  very  finely  powdered
black  dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of crude oils.  It  is 
used  for special effects in fireworks.

Lead Chloride  PbCl

Available   as   a  white,  crystalline, poisonous powder,  which   melts   at
501  degrees.  As  with  all lead salts, it is not only poisonous,   but   the
poison  accumulates in the body, so a lot of small, otherwise  harmless  doses 
can be  as bad as one large dose.

Mercurous Chloride  HgCl

Also  known  as calomel or Mercury Monochloride. This powder will brighten  an 
otherwise     dull   colored   mixture.   Sometimes   it   is   replaced    by
Hexachlorobenzene for  the  same purpose. This is non poisonous ONLY if it  is
100%   pure.   Never confuse this chemical with Mercuric  Chloride,  which  is 
poisonous in any purity.

Potassium Chlorate  KClO

This,   perhaps,   is the most widely used chemical in fireworks.  Before   it
was  known,   mixtures were never spectacular in performance.  It  opened  the
door   to what  fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder  that  is 
used   as   an oxidizer.  Never ram or strike a mixture  containing  Potassium 
Chlorate. Do  not store  mixtures  containing this chemical for any length  of 
time, as they may explode spontaneously.

Potassium Dichromate   K Cr O
   2  2 7

Also   known  as  Potassium  Bichromate.  The  commercial  grade  is  used  in
fireworks and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous.

Potassium Nitrate   KNO

Commonly  called Saltpeter. This chemical is an oxidizer which  decomposes  at 
400 degrees. It is well known as a component of gunpowder and is also used  in 
other firework pieces. Available as a white powder.

Potassium Perchlorate   KClO

Much   more  stable  than  its chlorate brother, this chemical  is   a   white
or  slightly  pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate   to
make  the  mixture safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to  make 
up  for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.

Red Gum

Rosin   similar  to  shellac  and  can often  replace  it  in  many  fireworks
formulas. Red Gum is obtained from barks of trees.

Shellac Powder

An   organic  rosin made from the secretions of insects which live  in  India.  
The exact  effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other  gums.  
The  common   mixture   of  shellac  and alcohol  sold  in   hardware   stores  
should  be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.

Sodium Oxalate  Na C O
    2 2 4

Used   in  making  yellow fires. Available as a fine dust,  which  you  should
avoid breathing.

Strontium Carbonate   SrCO

Known  in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for  adding
a red  color  to  fires. It comes as a white powder, in  a  pure,   technical,
or natural state.

Strontium Nitrate   Sr(NO )
    3 2

By  far  the  most common chemical used to produce red in  flares,  stars  and 
fires.  Available   in the technical grade as a white powder. It  does  double 
duty  as   an oxidizer,  but  has a disadvantage in that it will  absorb  some 
water  from  the air.

Strontium Sulfate   SrSO

Since   this  chemical does not absorb water as readily as the   nitrate,   it
is  often  used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural  state  it  is 
known  as  Celestine,  which  is comparable to the  technical  grade  used  in 

Sulfur   S

A  yellow  element  that acts as a reducing agent. It burns  at  250  degrees, 
giving  off  choking fumes. Purchase the yellow, finely  powdered  form  only. 
Other   forms  are  useless without a lot of extra and  otherwise  unnecessary 
effort to  powder it.

Zinc Dust   Zn

Of  all  the  forms  of  zinc available, only the dust  form  is  in  any  way
suitable.  As  a dust, it has the fineness of flour. Should be either  of  the 
technical   or  high purity grade. Avoid breathing the dust, which  can  cause 
lung  damage.   Used in certain star mixtures, and with sulfur,  as  a  rocket 

    Chapter Seventeen: The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics

    Most  pyrotechnic  mixtures follow a very simple set  of  chemical  rules. 
We'll  go  over  those now. Most mixtures contain an oxidizing  agent,   which
usually produces oxygen used to burn the mixture, and a reducing agent,  which 
burns   to  produce hot gasses. In addition, there can be coloring  agents  to 
impart a color to  the fire, binders, which hold the mixture in a solid  lump,
and   regulators  that speed up or slow down the speed at  which  the  mixture 
burns. These are  not all the possibilities, but they cover most all cases.

    Oxidizing  agents, such as nitrates, chlorates, and  perchlorates  provide 
the  oxygen.   They usually consist of a metal ion and  the  actual  oxidizing
radical. For  example,  Potassium  Nitrate  contains a metal  ion  (Potassium)
and   the  oxidizing   radical  (the  Nitrate).  Instead  of   potassium,   we
could   instead substitute  other metals, like sodium, barium,  or  strontium, 
and  the  chemical would still supply oxygen to the burning mixture. But  some 
are less  desirable. Sodium Nitrate, for example, will absorb moisture out  of 
the  air,  and  this will make it harder to control the  speed  at  which  the 
mixture will burn.

    In  the following examples, we'll use the letter "X" to show the  presence 
of a generic metal ion.

    Note  that  Nitrates are stingy with the oxygen that they  give  up.  They
only give one third of what they have.

    Some        Some
   Nitrate     Nitrite  Oxygen

 2XNO  ---> 2XN0    +  O
  3          2       2

    Chlorates  are  very  generous, on the other hand. They give  up  all  the 
oxygen  they  have.  Furthermore, they give it up more easily. It  takes  less
heat,  or less  shock  to  get  that oxygen loose. Mixtures  using   chlorates
burn   more  spectacularly,  because a smaller volume of the mix needs  to  be 
wasted  on  the oxidizer, and the ease with which the oxygen is supplied makes 
it burn  faster. But the mixture is also MUCH more sensitive to shock. 

 Some           Some
   Chlorate       Chloride     Oxygen

 2XClO   --->   2XCl     +   3O
   3                        2

Perchlorates   round  out  our  usual set  of  oxidizing  tools.  Perchlorates
contain  even  more oxygen than Chlorates, and also give it all  up.  However, 
they  are  not as sensitive as the Chlorates, so they make mixtures  that  are 
"safer". That is, they're less likely to explode if you drop or strike them.  

 Some          Some
  Perchlorate    Chloride     Oxygen

 XClO   --->   XCl     +    2O
  4                        2

 Reducing   agents,  like  sulfur and charcoal (carbon)  simply  burn  the
oxygen  to produce  sulfur  dioxide  and carbon dioxide. It's usually best  to
include   a   mixture  of the two in a pyrotechnic mixture, as  they  burn  at 
different   speeds  and  temperatures,  and the proper combination  will  help 
control the  speed  of combustion. 

 Also,   when   extra  fast  burning speed is needed,  like   in   rockets
and   firecrackers,  metal powder is often added. The finer  the  powder,  the 
faster  the   burning   rate.  The proportions  change  the  speed,  as  well. 
Magnesium  powder  or dust  is often used for speed. Aluminum dust works,  but 
not  as well. Zinc  dust is  used  in some cases. Powdered metal,  (not  dust)
particularly   aluminum   or iron,  are often used to produce a  mixture  that 
shoots  out sparks as it  burns. In  rare cases, it is desirable to slow  down 
the burning speed. In  this  case, corn meal is often used. It burns, so  acts 
as a reducing agent, but it  doesn't burn very well.

 Coloring   agents  are  very  interesting. It's  long  been  known   that
various  metals  produce different colored flames when burned in a  fire.  The 
reasons  are buried  in the realm of quantum physics, but the results are what 
matters,  and we can present them here. Note that if we use an oxidizing agent 
that   contains  a colorizing metal, it can do a double job.  It  can  produce 
oxygen and color.

Barium     -Barium  salts  give a pleasant green color. Barium Nitrate is most
     often used.

Strontium  -Strontium  salts  give  a strong red color. Strontium Nitrate is a
     very convenient material for red.

Sodium     -Sodium salts give an intense yellow color. So intense in fact that
     any  sodium  compounds  in  a  mixture will usually wash out other
     colorizers. As has been said, Sodium Nitrate absorbs moisture from
     the air, and so is not really  suitable to  impart color. Instead,
     Sodium  Oxalate  is  usually  used.  This  does not absorb lots of 
     water,  but   has  the  disadvantage   of  being  very  poisonous.

Copper     -Copper salts  are  used  to  give  a  blue color. Blue is the most 
     difficult  color to produce, and it's usually not too spectacular.
     Usually Copper  Acetoarsenite (Paris Green) is used. This compound
     contains arsenic, and  is  very  poisonous. Since it still doesn't
     produce a very  memorable blue,  it's often  used  with  mercurous
     chloride, which  enhances  the  color,  but is also poisonous, and
     expensive, to boot.
Potassium  -Potassium salts will give a delicate purple color, if they're very
     pure. The  cheaper  lab  grades of potassium nitrate often contain
     traces of sodium,  which  completely  obscure the purple color. In
     order to get  the  purple coloring, very pure grades must be used,
     and you must be  very careful to mix it in very clean vessels, and
     scoop it from the supply jar with a very clean scoop. The color is
     certainly worth the effort, if you can get it.

    Some   mixtures   that  burn in colors also contain binders,   that   hold
the  mixture together in a solid lump. These lumps are usually referred to  as 
stars.  The  balls fired from a roman candle or the colorful  showers  sprayed 
from aerial bombs  are examples of stars. Depending on the mixture, the binder 
is either  a starch  called  dextrin  or  finely powdered  orange  shellac.  A
shellac-like  material  called  red  gum is also used  on  occasion.  In  some 
mixtures,  the  shellac  powder  also  helps produce  a  nice  color.  Shellac 
mixtures are  moistened  with alcohol  to  get them to stick together. Dextrin 
mixtures  are  moistened  with water.

    If  the colored mixture is to be used as a flare, it's just packed into  a 
thin  paper  tube.  If  it's to be fired from a  roman  candle,  it's  usually 
extruded from a heavy tube by pushing it out with a dowel, and the pieces  are 
cut off as  the proper  length  pops out. Stars fired from an aerial bomb  are 
usually   made   by  rolling  the moist mixture flat, and cutting  it  with  a 
knife  into  small  cubes. Stars  that are extruded are often  called  "pumped 
stars" those that are  rolled out are "cut stars".

The   following  are  formulas for mixtures that burn  with  various   colors.
Parts are by weight.


Potassium Chlorate    9
Sulfur                2
Lampblack             1
Strontium Nitrate     9
bind with shellac
dissolved in alcohol


Potassium Chlorate    9         This one is inferior
Copper Acetoarsenite  2         Potassium Chlorate    12
Mercurous Chloride    1         Copper Sulfate        6
Sulfur                2         Lead Chloride         1
bind with dextrin               Sulfur                4
in water                        bind with dextrin in water


Barium Chlorate       8         Barium Nitrate        3
Lampblack             1         Potassium Chlorate    4
Shellac Powder        1         Shellac Powder        1
bind with alcohol               Dextrin              1/4
    Bind with alcohol


Potassium Chlorate    8         Potassium Chlorate    8
Sodium Oxalate        3         Sodium Oxalate        4
Lampblack             2         Shellac Powder        2
Bind with shellac in            Dextrin              1
alcohol or dextrin              Bind with alcohol
in water


Potassium Nitrate     6
Sulfur                1
Antimony Sulfide      2
bind with dextrin in


Strontium Nitrate     36
Sodium Oxalate        8
Potassium Chlorate    5
Shellac Powder        5
Sulfur                3
Bind with alcohol

Purple (ingredients must be very pure)

Potassium Chlorate    36        This one has more of a lilac color
Strontium Sulfate     10        Potassium Chlorate    38
Copper Sulfate        5         Strontium Carbonate   18
Lead Chloride         2         Copper Chloride       4
Charcoal              2         Lead Chloride         2
Sulfur                12        Sulfur                14
Bind with dextrin in            Bind with dextrin in water

Brilliant White

Potassium Perchlorate 12
Aluminum Dust         4
Dextrin              1
Bind with water

Golden   Twinkler   Stars  - Falls through the air and burns in  an   on   and
off manner. The effect is spectacular. A pumped or cut star.

Potassium Nitrate     18
Sulfur                3
Lampblack             3
Aluminum Powder       3
Antimony Sulfide      3
Sodium Oxalate        4
Dextrin              2
Bind with water

Zinc   Spreader   Stars  - Shoot out pieces of burning  zinc   and   charcoal.
These stars are much heavier than usual, and require larger charges if they're 
to  be fired from a tube.

Zinc Dust             72
Potassium Chlorate    15
Potassium Dichromate  12
Granular Charcoal     12
Dextrin               2
bind with water

Electric Stars - Stars that contain aluminum powder

Potassium Nitrate     15        Potassium Chlorate    60
Aluminum, fine        2         Barium Nitrate        5
Aluminum, medium      1         Aluminum, fine        9
Black Powder          2         Aluminum, medium      4
Antimony Sulfide      3         Aluminum, coarse      3
Sulfur                4         Charcoal              2
bind with dextrin in            Dextrin               5
water                           bind with red gum in

Potassium Perchlorate 6
Barium Nitrate        1         Potassium Perchlorate 4
Aluminum              20        Aluminum, medium      2
Dextrin               1         Dextrin               1
bind with shellac in            bind with shellac in alcohol

Simpler Zinc Spreaders

Potassium Nitrate     14        Potassium Chlorate    5
Zinc Dust             40        Potassium Dichromate  4
Charcoal              7         Charcoal, medium      4
Sulfur                4         Zinc Dust             24
bind with dextrin in           bind with dextrin in water

Willow   Tree  Stars  - Use large amounts of lampblack --  too  much  to  burn
fully. Gives a willow tree effect.

Potassium Chlorate    10
Potassium Nitrate     5
Sulfur                1
Lampblack             18
bind with dextrin in water

    As  always,  don't  forget that it's just plain stupid to  go  buying  all
these  materials  from  one chemical supply house. When you buy it  all  as  a 
group,  they know  what  you  plan  to do with it, and they keep  records.  If
anyone   goes investigating  the source of homemade fireworks and checks  with 
your   supplier, there will be a lead straight to you. Be sure to  cover  your